Maps and Stats

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2022 Europe by Bike

2022 Europe by Bike

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Stats Caribbean

Caribbean Countries 2023

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2023 Caribbean by Air

2023 Google Earth

2023 Europe by Bike

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Stats Africa

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2024 Africa by Air

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2024 Europe by Bike

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Posted in Maps | Tagged | 2 Comments

Panama, Panama City 19-20 Dec 2011

Left David at 0740 full wets on, no breakfast again but stomach feels better, two lane road for a while not much traffic winding through the hills at times, cool and cloudy then it became a 4 lane road and stayed that like that all the way to Panama City speeds 110-120kph most of the time fuel consumption goes up stopped for gas at 1010, lots of cops mostly single bikes parked on the side of the road watching traffic not doing anything about people speeding through 80kph zones which were the towns or on the highway except right where it was busy then they might step forward and traffic slows nothing else, it started to rain heavy at times  then stopped then started then luckily it stopped (my Nokia N8 GPS phone is not waterproof) just as I reached the outskirts of the City at 1200 pulled up and put the Nokia strap around my neck sharp curves for a while then traffic jam followed the Nokia maps and found the hotel easy arrived at 1240, 435km in 5 hours.

Called Girag Air Cargo but could not get anyone who could speak English the operator kept hanging up on me, decided to ride to the airport tomorrow and sort things out, went out to get some supplies then it started to pour again. The infrastructure in Panama is by far the most advanced of all the CA countries.

Woke up to no rain off to the airport at 0830, the Cargo terminal is around the back, found a couple of girls who worked there who spoke English one was black, there are a lot of blacks here and they speak English must be from the Caribbean side of Panama, after much discussion and Yes and No and Wait, because this is the Christmas break, there are no flights next week last one is Friday, they said I could leave the bike with them and they would try to get it on Fridays plane if not it would go on the first flight in the New Year and I could pick it up in Bogota, Columbia after I returned from Cuba, could not give me an exact date, cost $902 shipping and $200 storage, $1,102 for a 1.5 hour flight. Fingers crossed. Poured all afternoon, this rain is unseasonal its going to ease off tomorrow thankfully.

Posted in Panama | Tagged | 4 Comments

Panama, David, 18 Dec 2011

Left San Jose at 0740, no breakfast, had my wet weather gear on except for the over boots and gloves, cool, filled up at Cartago and then the road started to climb into the clouds, foggy, roads bumpy, wet and I was getting wet as well lucky I put my gear on but boots getting soaked, then the road turned to wet dirt for short stretches, kept climbing to over 3,300m fun except for the wet dirt some road works and overtaking trucks, not much traffic though, it got freezing at the top, after about 2 hours the road improved and started to descend and in 30min down to 500m went through San Isidro big town after that the road became bumpy and pot holed and followed the course of a river for some time, no traffic great ride the Vstrom handles the bumps really well, around 30k’s from the border it got really busy with local traffic then arrived at the border at 1230, 345k’s, 4:40min.

It was like a market place with cars and trucks everywhere stopped and asked a cop where the Costa Rica Immigration was and he pointed back the way I had come hahahaha, had to ride back through the traffic, small building, parked and a guy showed me where it was, an official was handing out forms, filled one in and stood in the queue, only about 6 people took about 10min and 1 min at the window then to the Aduana took 5 min filled in another form and had it processed and stamped and given back to me done by 1300, then a helper approached to do the Panama side, first photocopies $1, then I undressed and put all my gear away.

Sweltering now, rode to the Panama side and parked in front of the Immigration window about 100 people in the queue, went and got the Insurance $15, paid in Colones, the Exchange rate here is a rip-off 550:1 instead of 500:1, then had to go to another office and get the Insurance Cert stamped, then stood in the queue winding like a snake, no jumping the queue here, started pouring with rain, Helper went off and got the Fumigation Certificate $1, finally got to window at 1445, then Aduana handed in the papers and had to wait, Helper wanted to leave so I gave him my leftover Colones about $10, then a guy inspected the bike and asked me to open the panniers, I opened one and another guy came up and said no need so I closed up then he forgot to take the Customs form off me followed and gave it to him, then put all my wet weather gear on this time and off at 1515, 2:45min longest border crossing so far.

4 lane road patches of rain, arrived at David at 1550 filled up and rode around and looked for a hotel checked in at 1625, 395k’s in 8:45hrs long day, what a ride.

Posted in Costa Rica, Panama | Tagged , | 5 Comments

Costa Rica, San Jose, 16-17 Dec 2011

Left Playa Coco 0850 still feeling a little queasy so no food, this is a busy highway winding through the mountains lots of slow trucks and constant overtaking on narrow 2 lane roads, there were a few good bits with no traffic got to San Jose, most modern city so far but still no street names, I knew where my hotel was if I could just find the name of the street, asked for directions and slowly got closer then found it hahahaha, arrived at  1300, 250km, 4:10hrs, checked in and went to bed again.

Next day woke nearly back to normal, wandered around broad roads lots of Pedestrian only Spaces and people Christmas Shopping, visited the Museum well done, millions of Police all in pairs both men and women, not many native looking people, cool and cloudy with a cold breeze blowing here at 1000m.

Posted in Costa Rica | Tagged | 4 Comments

Costa Rica, Playa Coco, 15 Dec 2011

I went to bed feeling crook no dinner, nausea this time and woke up feeling worse, nearly stayed another day but took some pills and left the hotel at 0810, good road all the way to the border some slow traffic got there at 0940.

This is the most Bureaucratic and busiest border so far, again I paid to get through quickly, to add to the mess of stamps and paperwork there were about 5000 trucks lined up on both sides of the border and 200 Tour busses, every passenger has to go through Immigration on both sides and get their passport stamped, what a mess people and trucks and busses and cars everywhere. I won’t go into the details, this is what it cost – Exit Nicaragua, $1 for a ticket to get in, $1 to a kid to look after my bike, $12 for the Exit stamp, TVIP is free, $10 to jump the Immigration queue, $10 tip to the Helper = $34. Costa Rica is the worst so far, I had to go to about 4 different buildings all over the place back and forth to get various stamps etc, cost Immigration $10 to jump the queue, TVIP is free but $13.70 for Insurance, $4 weedkiller, $1 photocopies, $10 tip = $38.70. Total cost $72.70 all done by 1110 – 1:30hrs.

Costa Rica immediately feels like it is a notch up on the other Central American countries (except for their border crossing), no huts, good road signs with route numbers, no cars falling to bits and blowing clouds of smoke and the born again school busses have disappeared, arrived in Playa Coco (Coco Beach) a Tourist Village (American)  at 1250, 217km, 4:40hrs, checked into a hotel and went to sleep, went out a bit later bought some provisions, decided to stay on a liquid diet had to get some calories to keep the engine running, early night.

Posted in Costa Rica, Nicaragua | Tagged , | 3 Comments

Nicaragua, Granada, 13-14 Dec 2011

Left Managua at 1105 as it is only a short ride to Granada, good 4 lane road got stopped by a cop after about 30min, I was second in a line of 4 cars, the 1st guy pulled up and I pulled up behind him and the others slowed, he waved them all on except for me and then started in Spanish trying to say I had broken some rule asked for my Drivers Licence and money couldnt figure out how much, I just kept saying no and talking in English and using sign language to show that I was just following the cars we were not speeding or anything, he indicated he would keep my Drivers Licence so I said lets go and see a judge and see what he has to say, this guy must have known some English most Nicaraguans do and the authorities are trying to stamp out corruption, he then said “Cuando” asking how much I was willing to pay I said no again and he gave me back my DL and waved me on, last time this happened was in 2009 in a small town on the west coast of Mexico, play dumb, stick to your guns if you have done nothing wrong and wait the guy out and only talk English, kept going got to the hotel at around 1200 around 1 hour and 45km.

Had lunch at the park Granada’s signature dish Vigoron which is Yam topped with deep fried pork skin and chopped cabbage and chopped tomatoes and chilli not bad and a huge mug of  Papaya juice which was really good. Wandered around the town, there is a market and a million tourists and first time I have seen travel agents in Nicaragua. This place reminds me of a poorer version of Antigua in Guatemala.

Spent some time researching options to get across from Panama to Columbia, its a problem at this time of the year because of the holidays so I booked a flight to Cuba for a week over the holiday break, should be able to get a flight out to Columbia for me and the bike early in the New Year.

Posted in Nicaragua | Tagged | 4 Comments

Nicaragua, Managua, 11-12 Dec 2011

I left Tegucigalpa at 0805 this time taking the ring road around the city no traffic being Sunday took the Danli exit after watching my Nokia N8 closely, should have used the ring road when arriving, good road winding through the mountains cool had my inner jacket on top of my riding shirt, road deteriorated after about 60k’s not by much though, saw another section of road that had disappeared got stopped at Danli by cops they checked my papers and DL chatted about my trip for a while allowed me to take their pics and rode on.

Arrived at the border at 1005, both Honduras and Nicaragua Immigration and Customs were in huts and close together, this is an out of the way border crossing, parked and refused help at first there seemed to be only one guy and he started telling me what to do so I gave him my documents and he did the rest going into the offices and getting things stamped etc, Immigration was $3 and TVIP $10, he then took me across the border, bike had to be sprayed $3 and introduced me to the Nicaraguan Helper, the Honduras guy said his services were Gratis but I gave him $5 and my last Lempira 50 ($2.50), next Insurance done by an Agent $12 for 1 month, then Immigration $12 again bypassing the queue and Customs TVIP Free, the Honduras guy wanted $20, I gave him $10 and he shook hands and gave me a hug hahahaha, all done by 1045, changed $20 for Cordoba the rate this side is better 22:1, the Honduras side the guy was only offering 20:1 (official rate is 22.8:1), out of there at 1055, had to buy a National Park Donation Ticket for $1. Cost Honduras side $21.50 and Nicaragua side $37, Total=$58.50. This was the easiest and quickest Border Crossing so far only 45min, a bit like the Priority tickets you buy at Universal Studios and jump the queues hahahaha, capitalism at its finest.

Straight away onto a new road, very smooth no traffic and no speed bumps great ride gradually descending to the plains, 3 police check points I got waved through all of them cars had to stop, roadworks actually had traffic control with stop signs and two way radios, whoever is in charge of the Roads in this country knows what he is doing, more towns as I got closer to Managua which slowed things down but still way ahead of schedule arrived in Managua at 1400 stopped and filled up then followed the road until I thought I had gone too far then saw a sign for the National Assembly and turned left got to another major road and turned right and saw a Texaco stopped and asked the gas attendant for directions the hotel was about 300m away around 2 corners, what a fluke all the roads I had been on were broad and 4 lanes and very little traffic, checked in at 1435, 382km and 6:30hrs.There is a big modern Shopping Centre across the road and the ATM’s dispense USD$ as well as Cordoba.

The following day visited the Crazy Cathedral, Lake Managua and the National Palace / Museum, lots of rubbish lying around everywhere, the Cathedral is very unconventional and modern unpainted grey concrete weird no colours and not one bit of stained glass, stopped at the lake, the shoreline looks like a rubbish dump and the lake stinks, the National Palace and Museum not much in there, a few artefacts on one floor and some paintings out of there in 30min. Granada tomorrow only 45min away.

Posted in Honduras, Nicaragua | Tagged , | 2 Comments

Honduras, Tegulcigalpa, 9-10 Dec 2011

The first thing I was told when I checked in was not to take anything with me when I went out for a walk but it looks ok during the day in this area, brainwashing. The hotel has a 3m high wall topped with razor wire, then an electric fence and security cameras, some buildings have 2 rows of razor wire hahahaha

Went for a tour of the city which means hire a guide and a car like the other cities in this region, there are no group guided tours probably because there are no tourists. Its set in the middle of the mountains at 1000m so there are a lot of narrow, steep, winding streets. The old town is all one lane, one way streets and is clogged with traffic, a permanent traffic jam, Business, Banks and Embassies are all located in the area I am staying in away from the old town, there is no poverty in this area and there are also no Police, maybe thats why people are afraid to walk on the streets, in all the other countries Police and Military are everywhere.

The hotel website does not have a map of its location so I made one up and sent it to them to add to their website and they gave me a free nights stay, Thank You Senora, I spent all day in bed.

Posted in Honduras | Tagged | 1 Comment

Honduras, Tegucigalpa, 7-8 Dec 2011

I left La Libertad, El Salvador at 0920 got delayed a bit because there was some sort of procession in the street with a band banging away followed by a long line of traffic, lucky they were going in the opposite direction to me. Uneventful ride cool fairly good roads not much traffic lots of small villages most of the time doing 80-90kph got to San Miguel at 1140 after 154km in 2:20hrs still feeling crook, stopped at the Comfort Inn on the outskirts of the town, got something to eat and to bed. Left at 0810 the next morning running on Cold tablets did not go through the town went straight back out arrived at the Honduras border at 0900, some guys waved at me about 2k’s from the border so I stopped, they said they would do all the paperwork for $10, I said ok and followed them, long line of trucks rode to the front and stopped, a crowd of “Helpers” appeared but I told them I already had one, handed over documents to  my Helper, he made some photocopies and got a signature.

Rode on to the El Salvador Immigration and Customs building

Park here and queue for Immigration

Immigration Queue, the Immigration Officer checks your passport and gives you a small ticket, my passport is so full of stamps these guys can’t find the previous entry and exit stamps so its a good idea to note the page of your previous entries and exits so you can point it out to them, this guy traced my entry from Mexico to here and El Salvador does not stamp your passport ? While I was doing this the Helper got my El Salvador TVIP cancelled, again there is no cost for El Salvador Immigration and Customs.

 Cross the bridge into Honduras

Honduras Immigration and Customs, ride around to the right and park somewhere, I just waited with my bike the Helper’s did the rest.

While waiting 2 other guys appeared one was the Honduras Helper he took charge here and took me with him to see an Immigration and Customs Official, she explained to me that there was a $3 charge for Immigration and $35 for the Bikes TVIP and that I should not pay any more, I paid the second Helper the money and went back to waiting.

 While waiting the first helper who had by now acquired a mate who spoke good English started their scam saying that there were lots of other procedures that would require more money  yadayada, I told them I was paying only $38 as specified by the Government Official and not a cent more, a bit later he came back with the required paperwork and said that due to a power failure it could take another 12 hours but he bribed someone and got my papers put on top of the pile yadayada, I took all the documents off him, including the originals checked them twice and put them in my pocket then gave him $20 double what he asked for originally, they continued to hassel me, I just said NO and put my Helmet on, he said F’you and walked off, how do you pick a good Helper, no idea because they are really nice in the beginning, I read another blog where the guy got scammed of $200. Total time taken 2 hours and cost to me $60 – TVIP $35, Visa $3, Tip $20, Photocopies $2. I only finished up with one receipt for $3 hahahaha, there did not appear to be any official corruption but maybe the TVIP did not really cost $35 as there was no receipt. Anyway I was glad it was over and rode on stopped again a few hundred meters on and I handed over a copy of the Honduras TVIP and finally on the road.

After a few miles a police stop and I thought here we go again but it turned out to be a legit fund raiser and I put $1 into a slot in a large water container a girl was carrying around to all the cars.

The first half of the road after this was the worst I have ridden so far, large pot holes, vehicles dodging around them on the wrong side of the road hahahaha, landslides, in one case the whole road had disappeared and they had dug into the cliff to get past the drop-off, sections of dirt, cows, horses, bullock carts, not much traffic, small villages, fun ride overall, beats the freeway any day, steep winding climb upto 1500m then down to 1000m for Tegulcigalpa, a couple of wind farms at altitude, second half of the road was good. Got to the city at 1300 and spent another hour getting to the other side where my hotel was located, strangely my Nokia N8 had maps of the city so it was easy to find my way around and there is a really good ring road around the city which is set in the middle of the mountains with not a straight road in sight. 6 hours and 210km for the day with only 2 hours at the border a lot less than I thought it would be based on other reports.

Posted in El Salvador, Honduras | Tagged , | 3 Comments

El Salvador, La Libertad and San Salvador, 5-6 Dec 2011

Did an oil change on my bike in the car park finished up soaked in sweat 200% humidity no bike oil available, only suitable SJ oil I could find was for Diesel Engines it meets the specs in the manual so should be ok no slippery additives to interfere with the clutch. Wandered around town, one street along the coast not busy on a Monday. The jetty is both a parking lot for the fishing boats and a fish market. These tiny boats get lowered off the end of the jetty by a crane they go out and catch the fish, get hauled back up on top of the jetty and the fish are sold at the shore end of the jetty, couldn’t get any fresher. Tuesday I hired a taxi and went to San Salvador the capital to check out the Nationl Palace, the Cathedral, the National Theatre and the Museum, 33km good 4 lane road, second biggest city in Central America after Guatemala City looks a bit more organised, the Museum is the best so far. Feels like I have caught a cold/flu like bug, hope my white blood cells are going to get rid of it quick.

Posted in El Salvador | Tagged | Leave a comment