Colombia, Pasto, 09 Jan 2012

Left Popayan at 0815 overcast looked like rain, wet patches but no rain, road through the mountains climbing to over 3000m many sections where half the road has fallen down the mountain, pot holes, broken bitumen, the sun came out and it warmed up, very slow going, occasional good bit of road for a rest, spectacular scenery when I had time to look at it and not the road, one of the worst roads so far, an adventure ride and just what I needed to get my spirits back up after the fall, the bike took a real hammering and nothing fell off or broke so it must be in good shape. I think the government has put this road into the too hard basket.

Arrived in Pasto at 1245, 240k’s in 4.5hrs, quite a big town at 2600m and navigated to the address of the hotel I had booked, a rough part of the town, wrong address on the website, asked for directions, the first thing the guy said was, put your phone and camera away, they were hanging around my neck, after some discussion he said this old guy will find the hotel for COP$5000 ($2.50) so he got on the back of my bike to much cheering and encouragement, he was having trouble getting his leg over hahahaha and we rode off stopped and asked for directions once and found the place near the Centro a much nicer area and an excellent hotel but even here the door to the lobby is kept locked at all times, this is a common practice in Colombia even for stores if they do not have a security guard.
The number of police and military has dropped off considerably the closer I get to the border, hardly any in fact. There are a lot of bikes on the road and car drivers in Colombia are some of the worst, I have seen 3 bikes accidents so far with the bikes hit by cars and I have had any number of close calls. Mexican and Central American drivers would be considered safe compared to this lot hahahaha.
Spent some time in the garage fixing my bike, taped up the broken indicator and managed to straighten the hand guard enough so I could use the clutch and bolted it back on, need a vice to do it properly.

Posted in Colombia | Tagged | 1 Comment

Colombia, Popayan, 7-8 Jan 2012

I left Bogota at 0800 found my way onto the highway not much traffic in the city but it started to build up as I got closer to the outskirts, its a long weekend and everyone was heading out of town, slow going then an accident up ahead, road blocked for 45 min and the vehicles on my side of the block filled up all 3 lanes so the ambulance coming from the other side could not get through eventually did after a lot of backing up and squeezing, making 4 lanes out of three, crazy.

Finally got moving again and just as I was going past a bus around a corner, this is a four lane road now my lane was blocked with one of those red traffic barriers, no warning, I grabbed the brake, bike was leaned over, front wheel locked and down I went, according to my GPS it happened at 1019, speed 53kph, altitude 1442m, trip distance 51.47km and I got moving again at 1034, I tumbled leg came off but stayed in my riding pants slid to the side of the road and got it on again, a bike rider asked if I needed any help, no thank you, cop asked if I needed an ambulance, no, a couple of locals picked my bike up and moved it to the side of the road, the left hand guard was bent slightly, enough to prevent the clutch lever from being pulled in fully, got my tools out and removed the guard and put it in the pannier, GPS and mirrows askew, left indicator broken, left thumb stuffed, right wrist, ribs, hip and knee stuffed, camera and phone which were around my neck had scratches but still worked, when riding off I noticed the cop had removed the barrier and traffic was using the blocked lane?
After that it started to rain and some very steep and winding roads over 3000m for 2 hours, busses used the whole road going around hairpin bends, 2 stops of at least 30min for road works, one the road had fallen away, Quindino came up at 1500, 7 hours of riding stopped for fuel and a Pepsi, still a long way to go didn’t think I was going to make it to Popayan and decided to stop at Cali, joined the Autopista and speed crept up to 110-120kph police and military checkpoints every 10k’s making random stops.
All the roads had tolls but bikes are exempt, you just have to ride past the toll booth down a special lane for bikes, I forgot to do this once and had to pay $3.25 because there are sensors in the road. There must have been at least 10 toll stops which makes this place nearly as expensive as Mexico.
Made good time and arrived at Cali at 1650 andother 150k’s to Popayan so decided to keep going as the room was booked road narrowed to 2 lanes with villages still doing 100kph most of the time, started raining and the road started climbing and winding upto 1800m, about 20k’s out slowed right down to 35kph blinded by oncoming lights and drops of rain on my visor got to Popayan at 1830 in the dark, turned into a side road and stopped, rain had stopped so got the Nokia N8 out and checked my location used it to navigate to the hotel, it has proved invaluable on this trip with its offline maps, checked into the hotel at 1900, for two nights, 571km in 11 hours. Ibuprofen for dinner.

Posted in Colombia | Tagged | 1 Comment

Colombia, Bogota, 1-6 Jan 2012

2.5 hour flight from Havana to Panama, 3 hour wait and then a 1.5 hour flight from Panama to Bogota, Arrived in Bogota at 1700 and stood in the Immigration queue for an hour, got some money out of an ATM and next to the taxi office where they give you a slip which has the fare to your Hotel on it, you pay the driver when you get there $12 in my case checked in at 1900 a long day.

Bogota is a big modern city of 8 million at 2660m altitude, even the PIN on my credit card worked at the hotel first time in a long time, wandered around the city on Monday looking for a road map of Columbia with no success, they have GPS and book maps but no fold out paper maps, BYO for all you travellers out there. First couple of days I was breathless and had a headache getting acclimatised to the altitude, having come from sea level.

Called Girag Air Cargo about my bike on Tuesday and was to told it would arrive on Wednesday night, called them Thursday morning but could not find anyone who spoke English so got a taxi ($10) at 0915 to the airport found the Girag office got the original waybill from them and went to the Aduana which is right in front of their building presented my papers and they did all the work, filled in the forms, all I had to do was sign on the dotted line a few times and they gave me two copies of the documents one for Girag to release the bike and one for me, back to Girag downstairs this time to the warehouse, inspected the bike all ok except for a crack in the plastic of the top box didn’t notice it until I got back to the hotel at 1215, total time taken 3 hours not bad and what a relief.

Wednesday was a tour of the Salt Cathedral, inside a working salt mine located in Zipaquira, huge caverns quite an amazing sight.

Friday went up to the lookout on the cable car for a view of the city then wandered through the old town lots of other tourists, cool and cloudy, it has rained lightly most days in the evening or at night.

Posted in Colombia | Tagged , , | 3 Comments

SCAM – Warning

I have just been informed of this Scam, it was perpetrated on two elderly friends of mine who live in the USA, same age as my parents. Do not pay anyone any money, the person listed as next of kin in my passport is my daughter and if I was to call her she would know if it was me or not instantly. This happened while I was in Panama and if they had checked this Blog it would not have happened.

Here is the story as told by them.

On Dec. 21, 2011, one Sergeant Patterson called us from Dominion Republic asking for us; obviously he had correct details, and the telephone number. He told us that Chris has been involved in an auto accident which was hit and run case. The driver was found to be under the influence of alcohol but Chris was clear. Chris is being held for want of bail. At this point on our insistence that we talk to you, it sounded like you talked to us, telling us that you have been involved in the accident and that you can make only one call. So we were some what relieved by the fact that we talked to you personally.

The Sergeant told us that if we pay USD $2,900.00 Chris could be released by the court. We should wire Western Union cash payment to: James Evans, bondsman in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. After we make this transaction, we should call the Sergeant and give him the “MTCN” (the receipt) number, which we did, after paying $2,900.00 plus service charge of $239.00 for a total of $3139.00. The Sergeant told us that after the release by the court, a full refund in the amount of $3139.00 would be sent to us by check in three days.

On Dec. 22, 2011, this Sergeant Patterson called again and told us that Chris has been released. But the bad news is that he can not leave the country unless he pays his 50% of the damage caused by the accident. His due is $2,500.00  If we pay this amount to  Robert Stern in Cuautitlan, Mexico, after receiving that amount they will put Chris on the plane to Australia. We wired USD $2,500.000 plus service charge $76.00, for a total of $ 2,576.00. We did that too, fearing about your safety.

Posted in Scams | Tagged | 2 Comments

Cuba, Havana, 24 Dec – 1 Jan 2012

I had to check out of the hotel in Panama at 1400, taxi 45min and $25 to the Panama airport, through Immigration and Security, they don’t stamp your passport when you leave, at Security you have to take your shoes and belt off but they let a bottle of water through, 3 gate changes (disorganized) kept me fit while waiting for my flight and a Haagen Daz undid all the good work hahahaha.

Finally boarded at 2045 and was sold the Cuban Tourist Permit at the gate for $20, it is simply a small form where you enter your details twice, handing in one half when you enter Cuba and the other half when you leave, they do not stamp your passport so nobody knows that you have been to Cuba, I have heard Israel does the same thing because if you have an Israel stamp in your passport some Middle East countries will deny you entry.

The flight was a comedy, they (Copa Airlines) let people on with huge hand luggage which filled up the overhead lockers and people boarding later could not get their stuff in so they started fighting and yelling and other passengers had to stand up to have a look hahahaha, finally the cabin staff got a baggage handler and he put some stuff in the hold, we eventually left about 30min late. On landing everyone stood up and started taking their stuff out of the lockers so the captain stopped the plane on the runway and would not move until all the luggage had been put back and everyone was seated with their seat belts on.

After that Immigration was painless but they put all your luggage through the x-ray machines before you leave the airport, looking for Satellite phones I believe.

People were smoking while waiting at the luggage belt, luggage came off at the rate of about one a minute, took ages and some had several massive canvas bags full of clothes which I later saw being checked at Customs probably have to pay duty.

Taxi to the hotel at 0145 on Christmas morning CUC$25, there is an ATM at the airport, if you pay with US dollars you pay $5 more.

If you are wondering what a CUC is, its a Cuban Convertible Peso and is tied to the US dollar at a ratio of 1:1 and is meant for Tourists, the local people use a Cuban Peso 25 of which equal 1 CUC. Tourists cannot use the local currency. Basically this is a way for a 3rd world country to charge 1st world prices.

The next day I went to a supermarket to get some water and supplies, at the checkout I paid with a CUC$50 note and I was asked for id, details of which were entered on a form and was given a 20 and a 10 and some coins in change, I knew this was wrong so I asked for the receipt, she took the money back and examined it in the light pretending to check if they were counterfeit then handed me 2 x 20’s and the receipt then at the gate a security guard checked the receipt so he must have been in on the scam as well because if I had walked out without checking there would have been no receipt. My research before I entered the country told me what to look out for, the other common scam is restaurants adding items to your bill, so when in Cuba check everything twice, Tourists are considered fair game.

The next surprise was Internet costs CUC$8 per hour, ouch and though I could get a Wifi signal in my room I could never connect had to go to the lobby, one hour lasted my whole stay. Locals do not have access to the Internet or Email. Skype is blocked and the only one of my SIM cards that got a signal was from India but when I tried to send a txt out of the country it was blocked.

Cuba is stuck in the 50-60’s with some beautiful old buildings and cars slowly disintegrating, they do have a very organised Tourist Department and tours everywhere so it must play an important part in their economy. Tourists were mainly (90%) from Russia, Eastern Europe and Latin America with a few German, French, Italian, Dutch, English, Chinese, Australian and Americans

Now for some unverified Tour Guide gossip

1. Castro once gave a speech that lasted 7 hours (Guinness Book of World Records)

2. When the Pope visited 2 million people came to see him

3. Medical care is free but drugs are in short supply

4. Education is free up to the 9th grade then you can do 5 years of University or Technical College, then a 2 year bond with the Government.

5. Most families live in one house, one family to a room, they can’t afford to build new houses.

6. The minimum monthly income is 200 local pesos or $8 (does not sound right)

7. 99% of business is State owned

8. Before the revolution Cuba was equally divided between Whites, Blacks and Chinese after the revolution all the Chinese left because they lost their businesses.

9. The old American Car Taxis are one of the few privately owned businesses; each driver pays a fixed tax to the Government and keeps the rest as income.

10. Churches are only open during Mass

11. Mangoes, Bananas, Tobacco and Sugarcane are the main crops.

12. Smoking is permitted everywhere, the only places I saw No Smoking signs was in the Tour Busses and in the Departure Lounge at the Airport and everyone smokes.

13. According to an English guy I met who has spent some time in this area Cuba is a paradise compared to the other drug and crime ridden Caribbean countries.

14. There is no advertising, no billboards, no neon signs and no shopping centres or malls.

15. Christmas and New Year are not celebrated

Freedom was declared on 1-Jan-1959, and this date is celebrated as Revolution Day every year and 53 years later they are still going on about the Revolution instead of moving on like every other country has done.

When they do move on they should be successful because corruption and crime have been almost eliminated

There are very few pictures of Castro and I did not see a single Statue of him so there is no Personality cult.

For all you travelers out there this is a useful website, I met the founder Elizabeth on one of the tours.

http://www.healthytravelersite.net/

Out of Cuba on 1-Jan-2012 from the Hotel to Airport in an old Lada taxi a bit like the old Fiat’s in Bombay held together with bits of string and wire hahahaha which had a leaky exhaust, that driver is going to die of carbon monoxide poisoning one of these days, its a toss up between that and lung cancer. You will need to set aside CUC$25 for the Taxi and another CUC$25 for the Departure Tax.

Arrived in Bogota, Columbia to wait for my bike and I am back online.

Posted in Cuba | Tagged | 7 Comments

Panama, Panama Canal, 21-23 Dec 2011

I dropped my bike off on Wednesday, you have to ride around the back of the airport to get to the Cargo Terminal. First stop is at the Aduana which is at the gate, get your TVIP exit permit here and also get the stamp in your passport to show your bike has left the country, enter and ride around to the right, go to the blue building, there are no signs, this is the Girag Air Cargo office, wait until they complete the paperwork then they will get someone to take you around the side where you leave your bike and pay the freight charges, walk back onto the road and look for a taxi $25 back to the city, stop the taxi at the gate and hand in a a copy of the shipping document that Girag gives you to the Aduana, keep your fingers crossed that your bike arrives in one piece.

I went to the Cuban embassy to ask about a Visa/Tourist permit, a big black lady at the front desk said in a forbidding voice in Spanish, “I do not speak English”, what a welcome, she did finish up smiling at my broken Spanish in the end, anyway it turns out that you can get your Tourist Permit in Havana, I think hahahaha.

Next day I went on a city tour to the Mira Flores Locks the first set on the Pacific side, there are two sets of locks on either side of the country, quite an amazing sight watching these huge ships rising in the locks and nothing much has changed since 1914.
A visit to the old Colonial city with narrow brick paved streets and a Cathedral. Hot and humid.

Posted in Panama | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Maps and Stats

If using your phone, use the Chrome Web Browser in Desktop Mode. First access chrisdesmond.org on your phone using Chrome then click on the three dots in the top right corner and select “Desktop site” from the drop down menu.

2022 Europe by Bike

2022 Europe by Bike

.

Stats Caribbean

Caribbean Countries 2023

.

2023 Caribbean by Air

2023 Google Earth

2023 Europe by Bike

.

Stats Africa

.

2024 Africa by Air

.

2024 Europe by Bike

.

Posted in Maps | Tagged | 2 Comments

Panama, Panama City 19-20 Dec 2011

Left David at 0740 full wets on, no breakfast again but stomach feels better, two lane road for a while not much traffic winding through the hills at times, cool and cloudy then it became a 4 lane road and stayed that like that all the way to Panama City speeds 110-120kph most of the time fuel consumption goes up stopped for gas at 1010, lots of cops mostly single bikes parked on the side of the road watching traffic not doing anything about people speeding through 80kph zones which were the towns or on the highway except right where it was busy then they might step forward and traffic slows nothing else, it started to rain heavy at times  then stopped then started then luckily it stopped (my Nokia N8 GPS phone is not waterproof) just as I reached the outskirts of the City at 1200 pulled up and put the Nokia strap around my neck sharp curves for a while then traffic jam followed the Nokia maps and found the hotel easy arrived at 1240, 435km in 5 hours.

Called Girag Air Cargo but could not get anyone who could speak English the operator kept hanging up on me, decided to ride to the airport tomorrow and sort things out, went out to get some supplies then it started to pour again. The infrastructure in Panama is by far the most advanced of all the CA countries.

Woke up to no rain off to the airport at 0830, the Cargo terminal is around the back, found a couple of girls who worked there who spoke English one was black, there are a lot of blacks here and they speak English must be from the Caribbean side of Panama, after much discussion and Yes and No and Wait, because this is the Christmas break, there are no flights next week last one is Friday, they said I could leave the bike with them and they would try to get it on Fridays plane if not it would go on the first flight in the New Year and I could pick it up in Bogota, Columbia after I returned from Cuba, could not give me an exact date, cost $902 shipping and $200 storage, $1,102 for a 1.5 hour flight. Fingers crossed. Poured all afternoon, this rain is unseasonal its going to ease off tomorrow thankfully.

Posted in Panama | Tagged | 4 Comments

Panama, David, 18 Dec 2011

Left San Jose at 0740, no breakfast, had my wet weather gear on except for the over boots and gloves, cool, filled up at Cartago and then the road started to climb into the clouds, foggy, roads bumpy, wet and I was getting wet as well lucky I put my gear on but boots getting soaked, then the road turned to wet dirt for short stretches, kept climbing to over 3,300m fun except for the wet dirt some road works and overtaking trucks, not much traffic though, it got freezing at the top, after about 2 hours the road improved and started to descend and in 30min down to 500m went through San Isidro big town after that the road became bumpy and pot holed and followed the course of a river for some time, no traffic great ride the Vstrom handles the bumps really well, around 30k’s from the border it got really busy with local traffic then arrived at the border at 1230, 345k’s, 4:40min.

It was like a market place with cars and trucks everywhere stopped and asked a cop where the Costa Rica Immigration was and he pointed back the way I had come hahahaha, had to ride back through the traffic, small building, parked and a guy showed me where it was, an official was handing out forms, filled one in and stood in the queue, only about 6 people took about 10min and 1 min at the window then to the Aduana took 5 min filled in another form and had it processed and stamped and given back to me done by 1300, then a helper approached to do the Panama side, first photocopies $1, then I undressed and put all my gear away.

Sweltering now, rode to the Panama side and parked in front of the Immigration window about 100 people in the queue, went and got the Insurance $15, paid in Colones, the Exchange rate here is a rip-off 550:1 instead of 500:1, then had to go to another office and get the Insurance Cert stamped, then stood in the queue winding like a snake, no jumping the queue here, started pouring with rain, Helper went off and got the Fumigation Certificate $1, finally got to window at 1445, then Aduana handed in the papers and had to wait, Helper wanted to leave so I gave him my leftover Colones about $10, then a guy inspected the bike and asked me to open the panniers, I opened one and another guy came up and said no need so I closed up then he forgot to take the Customs form off me followed and gave it to him, then put all my wet weather gear on this time and off at 1515, 2:45min longest border crossing so far.

4 lane road patches of rain, arrived at David at 1550 filled up and rode around and looked for a hotel checked in at 1625, 395k’s in 8:45hrs long day, what a ride.

Posted in Costa Rica, Panama | Tagged , | 5 Comments

Costa Rica, San Jose, 16-17 Dec 2011

Left Playa Coco 0850 still feeling a little queasy so no food, this is a busy highway winding through the mountains lots of slow trucks and constant overtaking on narrow 2 lane roads, there were a few good bits with no traffic got to San Jose, most modern city so far but still no street names, I knew where my hotel was if I could just find the name of the street, asked for directions and slowly got closer then found it hahahaha, arrived at  1300, 250km, 4:10hrs, checked in and went to bed again.

Next day woke nearly back to normal, wandered around broad roads lots of Pedestrian only Spaces and people Christmas Shopping, visited the Museum well done, millions of Police all in pairs both men and women, not many native looking people, cool and cloudy with a cold breeze blowing here at 1000m.

Posted in Costa Rica | Tagged | 4 Comments