El Salvador, La Libertad, 4 Dec 2011

I left Antigua at 0900 and rode downhill from 1500m towards the coast then along the flat to the border with El Salvador at Ciudad Pedro de Alvarado from cool to hot and humid 35c in the shade, lost my way a couple of times, with no signs or maps for my GPS, I am getting used to this.

Arrived at the border at 1145, there was a mile long queue of trucks waiting to cross, all going into El Salvador, I followed the rest of the traffic on the wrong side of the road through the town to get to the front of the queue, it all works out somehow hahahaha amazing.

At the front of the queue is this guy, stop and show him your Guatemalan TVIP papers he will endorse them with the date and time and a stamp.

Next follow the red car until you get to the end of the building, stop and park your bike in front of or as close to the Immigration window as possible, you can see a bunch of people standing there.

Park here

Give the Immigration Officer your passport and any other Guatemalan papers you have on you. The guy in the yellow top was pestering me so I let him take over and just watched, he gave me his Guatemalan ID card to keep as security, at the end I gave him a tip of Q100 or USD$12.50, follow these instructions and you can do it yourself.

Next take all you papers across the road to where you can see the guy in the yellow top and get 2 copies of everything, TVIP, Title, Registration, Drivers Licence and Passport. Cost Q5 or $0.65c

Now walk back to the Immigration Building to the other side and at the other end and present your papers at the Aduana window or if there is a queue put them at the bottom of the pile in the window, you can see the pile of papers in the window in front of the guy in the red shirt. There were 5 people ahead of me and each one takes about 5-10min, this was the longest wait, when it comes to your turn the Customs guy will check the VIN on your bike and it was all done by 1245 total 1 hour. After this I gave my helper his tip and then changed the last of my Quetzals to USD$ I only had Q60 left and should have got $6.50 in return, the money changer gave me some $1 notes and as I just wanted to get going I did not count them, just stuffed them into my pocket, later I counted them and there was only $4, no big deal but if you are changing a larger sum make sure you count the money before riding off,  now for the El Salvador mob.

Ride across the bridge on the wrong side and hope a truck is not coming the other way hahahaha, at the other side of the bridge there is a check point just give the guy all the Guatemalan papers he will endorse them with the time and date and a stamp, ride on staying to the right of the building up ahead which is Immigration and Customs.

Park in front of the window where the girl in the white top is standing and present your passport, it gets stamped, no charge and away you go.

On your bike and ride about 10m further down and park your bike between 2 cars in front of the Aduana office under cover phew out of the hot sun for a change.

Park here enter through the door and turn right, its air-conditioned Ahaaaaaa

This is the window, the sign above it says in English that all Immigration and Customs is completely Free and to stop corruption and not pay anyone, hand in your Guatemalan document and passport and a copy of your drivers licence, the Customs Officer will process them and check the VIN number on your bike, she will then produce a document which you have to get 2 copies of, the photocopy place which is in the same building was closed for lunch so she very kindly took them across the road to one of their offices and made the copies for me, no charge otherwise I would have had to wait until the photocopy guy finished his lunch and got back to work, Thank You Senora. When she handed me the completed documents she pointed to the Notice above the window about corruption and asked me to read it. On my bike glad to get moving, next stop is the final checkpoint before you enter the country to make sure you haven’t just ridden past all the offices without getting the right stamps and papers. There was a guy and a good looking young woman at the checkpoint, I handed the guy my papers and the girl kept asking for something and I did not have a clue what she wanted so I kept saying NO ESPANOL, finally he said “Ticket $5”, the first instance of Corruption I have come across, I said NO collected my documents and rode off, total time for both exit and entry procedures 1:45 hours and total cost about $13 (tip and photocopies) not bad at all.

Great ride along the coast, the mountains come down to the sea and the road is about 100m above the ocean, a few tunnels and villages, looks poor but the road is wide good overall and there are some road signs, arrived in La Libertad at 1500 after covering 297km, this is the Surfing capital of El Salvador, the beaches are made up of Black Volcanic sand like parts of Hawaii and New Zealand

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Guatemala, Guatemala City, 3 Dec 2011

I hired a taxi and guide and made a half day trip to Guatemala City, 1 hour to go, 3 hours sight-seeing and an hour’s drive back, not a lot to see, first we went to the Museum, small, a few Archeaological artifacts, next to the Avenida of the Americas where various Nations have built small monuments, then to an exclusive gated community where the billionaires live under heavy security, we were only allowed in after the guide showed his official Guide Pass, then to the Main plaza small, to see the National Palace (not allowed in) and the Cathedral, then a drive to have a look at the hillside slums from a distance where the Police are not allowed in controlled by the Gangs, this is a major drug corridor.

That night there were Christmas celebrations in the Antigua Park, fireworks, bands, childrens choir etc. my last day in Antigua.

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Guatemala, Antigua, 27 Nov – 02 Dec 2011

I left Santa Elena on Sunday at 0750 blue skies and the road winding through hills small towns along the way, cool weather roads good most of the time except for about a 100km section of broken pot holed road through the mountains (altitude 1500m) approaching Guatemala city which then turned into a new concrete 4 lane highway for the last 40km. The Road engineers have worked out a couple of innovative ways to slow traffic down, put up signs for speed bumps and then dont have any speed bumps, next is lay down some patchy bitumen over the good road in corners to make it bumpy enough to slow cars down, see pic’s. It took 6 hours to do the first 500km to Guatemala City and then another 2.5 hours to do the next 50km to Antigua hahahaha, I got to the other side of the city without too much trouble then hit a road block and went around in circles for 1.5 hours trying to get onto the highway, finally got fed up asking for directions and stopped at a taxi rank and got one of them to show me the way to the Antigua turnoff for the princely sum of Q100 ($13), he probably made a 100% profit and was very happy and I was very happy to get out of the traffic and into Antigua before dark. There are no GPS maps of Guatemala and signs are practically non-existent.

Antigua a very old historic town that has been preserved in its original form, narrow one way cobblestone streets, another trick from the engineers to slow traffic down and keep cars off the roads ie. its faster to walk if you don’t break an ankle.

Spanish school (http://www.donpedrospanishschool.com/index.php) is full on, 0800-1200 then siesta and then 1400 to 1600, one on one tuition. I am staying with a local family about a 5min walk from the school very convenient, I don’t think I can handle more than a week of this. Today we went on a tour of a Macadamia plantation instead of having class in the afternoon, thank you, my brain was ready to explode and spew nuevo palabra all over the lugar.

Dinner and Salsa dancing (not me) at the school on Thursday then a session at Frida’s.

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USA, Canada and Mexico, 2008-2011

I travelled through all 50 states of the USA and Canada and Mexico on and off from 2008 to 2011.

This is a link to my Horizons Unlimited Blog which I used during my 2008 USA ride.

http://new.horizonsunlimited.com/tstories/chrisd/around-the-world-2008

and pictures from 2009 and 2010

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=A388D94AFD20F1E4

USA 2008-11

Alaska 2008-10

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Guatemala, Tikal, 26 Nov 2011

Short ride 62km from Santa Elena to Tikal which must have been the Maya equivalent to the Vatican. The pyramids are different again from Uxmal and Chichen Itza and being built of limestone are slowly crumbling. The site is located on top of a hill and is covered in dense tropical jungle though in its heyday the area would have been cleared and must have been an awe inspiring sight to the local people.

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Guatemala, Santa Elena, 25 Nov 2011

A surprise Belize breakfast out of the back of a truck then left at 0820 blue skies and cool could not ask for better riding weather. I made a short detour and rode through Belmopan the capital of Belize built after Hurrican Hattie destroyed Belize City in 1961, nothing much to see. Arrived at the border at 1040, the total border crossing time was 55min, all the officials are very helpful, you will need BZD$37.50 (USD$18) to exit Belize, this is paid in the Immmigration building then you get a stamp, next move to the Customs Building and surrender your TVIP and get the stamp in your passport cancelled as well. Note Belize Immigration timings are 0800-1200 then 1300-1500 weekdays and 0800-1200 weekends. Now change the last of your Belize dollars into Guatemala Quetzals, the money changers come to you and also tell you where to go. On your bike and ride through the Fumigation shed, they wave bikes through, find a place to park and into the Guatemala Immigration and Customs building which is an open air structure, all located in the one spot, they fill in the forms you will need copies of your Passport, Registration and Drivers Licence and QZ160 (about USD$20). They did not ask to see the Title or inspect the bike. I thought crossing into Belize from Mexico was quick and easy this took half the time and was even easier. The pictures tell the story. Immediately you notice the better roads and no speed bumps BUT then you hit a camouflaged speed bump at 110kph give birth to some kittens and keep your eyes open, 3 sections of pot holed dirt 5km, 500m and 3km thrown in for entertainment, keep your speed up around 80kph dodge the oncoming cars swerving to avoid the potholes and you  should be ok, tyre pressure at 36psi will protect your rims from those speed bump hits and they are so well camouflaged that you will hit a few of them at speed. Arrived in Santa Elena at 1255, 233km and 4:35hrs fun day.

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Belize, Museum of Belize, 24 Nov 2011

Last day in Belize I went to the Museum which used to be the prison, some interesting British prison trivia like the Hangman’s Drop Table, the executioners in Baghdad would have found that useful ie. one of Sadam’s henchmen lost his head. An explanation of the Maya Calendar and some very BIG bugs.

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Belize, Belize City, Caye Caulker, Ambergris Caye, 22-23 Nov 2011

This is for all you people who weren’t paying attention in Geography class. The red line is my route upto Antigua where I should arrive on Sunday and the blue circles are the places I have stayed at.

Belize City, laid back, ramshackle, faded grandeur, smiling faces, unpretentious, with a charm of  its own. There is a Tourist zone away from the downtown area where the Cruise ships passengers are ferried to and only authorised locals are allowed, no beggars, horse and buggys, flea market and a number of Diamond shops, There was one cruise ship yesterday today there were five anchored in deep water. When you walk past someone in the street they say “Good Morning” and in Australia its “Mate”, in the USA its “Sir”, in Asia its “Boss”, in Belize its “Daddy”.

I went to Caye Caulker on the water taxi one hour journey wandered around had breakfast then water taxi to San Pedro, Ambergris Caye 30 minutes further North and then back to Belize City 110km round trip. Caulker Caye is the place to be, small, very rustic, no big resorts, unpaved streets, no crowds, beautiful.

The staple diet here is Beans and Rice or you can have Rice and Beans.

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Belize, Belize City, 21 Nov 2011

I went to bed and dreamt of tropical depressions and sliding down muddy wet roads in Belize and woke up to blue skies, a nice birthday present, departed at 0800 for the border which was 15min away, follow the signs to the “Subteniente Lopez Belice”, the other sign takes Mexicans to an area where they can buy Duty free goods from Belize, first stop is Mexican Immigration, surrender your Tourist permit and get your passport stamped then ride about 10m and turn left and park your bike, the Mexican Banjercito is in front of you behind a fence, hand in your documents, show the lady where your VIN label is on your bike she will take a photograph, remove the Mexican TVIP (Temporary Vehicle Import Permit) from your bike and hand it in and wait, you will receive in return a certificate showing that your bike has left the country, the USD$400 deposit will be automatically credited back to your credit card account (I hope).

Next ride across the bridge into Belize, after a few hundred meters you will see a white shack, stop in front of it and a guy will come out and spray your tyres and charge you Mex$40 pesos and give you a certificate, this is mandatory, ride another 100m  into the parking lot on the left and park your bike, there is a guy there who will look after it for you, walk into the Immigration & Customs building in front of you, its all located in the one building that looks like a warehouse. This is the cheapest and easiest border crossing I have ever done and it is completely FREE, first the Immigration Officer will stamp your passport with a one month visa, takes all of 2 min then you walk to a counter behind him and the show the Customs Officer your Passport, Drivers Licence, Bike Registration and Bike Title Document, no copies are required, she/he will issue you with a TVIP for one month and also stamp your passport and remind you to surrender the TVIP when you leave the country and have the stamp in your passport cancelled as well, all done probably took 15min. Out of the building and walk to the car park fence where there are money changers on the other side who will change your Mexican pesos or USD to Belizean Dollars, on your bike and ride to the white building in the distance and buy your Belize insurance, this is mandatory, one weeks insurance cost BZD$29 or USD$14.50, he will give you an Insurance certificate in return, another 15min its now 0950 one hour and 50min since I left my Hotel, now you can do whatever you like. The road to Belize City is good paved road all the way, no dirt at all, LOOK OUT for unmarked speed bumps and roundabouts in the middle of the highway when you are doing 110kph, after the first surprise you will pay attention hahahaha. Sugarcane fields, small towns hardly any traffic, I arrived in Belize City after a stop to don my wet weather gear at 1230, 2 hours and 40 min later, easy ride. The people and accents look and sound Caribbean and the language is English, I can stop using sign language for a few days but understanding their replies is a different matter, nothing fancy about the place and nothing is cheap either not sure how the locals manage, very narrow pot holed one way streets, obviously poor but the people smile and are happy, what a day!

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Mexico, Chetumal, 20 Nov 2011

Rained all night tropical depression being the forecast for the next 3 days, left Cancun at 0830 full wets on, wet roads but no rain, 4 lane highway all the way to Carmen del Palya then Tulum, lined with Resorts 140k’s sunshine all the way, with me sweltering in my gear, then the road narrowed to 2 lanes still good with broad shoulders and the rain started heavy at times all the way to Chetumal at least it cooled me down and did not slow my progress 110 kph most of the time arrived at 1330, 5 hours easy ride, roads in Chetumal flooded checked in and went for a walk around town 300% humidity, no historic buildings here, rubbish on the streets though that could be due to the storm, naval presence and a major port for this area.

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