Cuba, Havana, 24 Dec – 1 Jan 2012

I had to check out of the hotel in Panama at 1400, taxi 45min and $25 to the Panama airport, through Immigration and Security, they don’t stamp your passport when you leave, at Security you have to take your shoes and belt off but they let a bottle of water through, 3 gate changes (disorganized) kept me fit while waiting for my flight and a Haagen Daz undid all the good work hahahaha.

Finally boarded at 2045 and was sold the Cuban Tourist Permit at the gate for $20, it is simply a small form where you enter your details twice, handing in one half when you enter Cuba and the other half when you leave, they do not stamp your passport so nobody knows that you have been to Cuba, I have heard Israel does the same thing because if you have an Israel stamp in your passport some Middle East countries will deny you entry.

The flight was a comedy, they (Copa Airlines) let people on with huge hand luggage which filled up the overhead lockers and people boarding later could not get their stuff in so they started fighting and yelling and other passengers had to stand up to have a look hahahaha, finally the cabin staff got a baggage handler and he put some stuff in the hold, we eventually left about 30min late. On landing everyone stood up and started taking their stuff out of the lockers so the captain stopped the plane on the runway and would not move until all the luggage had been put back and everyone was seated with their seat belts on.

After that Immigration was painless but they put all your luggage through the x-ray machines before you leave the airport, looking for Satellite phones I believe.

People were smoking while waiting at the luggage belt, luggage came off at the rate of about one a minute, took ages and some had several massive canvas bags full of clothes which I later saw being checked at Customs probably have to pay duty.

Taxi to the hotel at 0145 on Christmas morning CUC$25, there is an ATM at the airport, if you pay with US dollars you pay $5 more.

If you are wondering what a CUC is, its a Cuban Convertible Peso and is tied to the US dollar at a ratio of 1:1 and is meant for Tourists, the local people use a Cuban Peso 25 of which equal 1 CUC. Tourists cannot use the local currency. Basically this is a way for a 3rd world country to charge 1st world prices.

The next day I went to a supermarket to get some water and supplies, at the checkout I paid with a CUC$50 note and I was asked for id, details of which were entered on a form and was given a 20 and a 10 and some coins in change, I knew this was wrong so I asked for the receipt, she took the money back and examined it in the light pretending to check if they were counterfeit then handed me 2 x 20’s and the receipt then at the gate a security guard checked the receipt so he must have been in on the scam as well because if I had walked out without checking there would have been no receipt. My research before I entered the country told me what to look out for, the other common scam is restaurants adding items to your bill, so when in Cuba check everything twice, Tourists are considered fair game.

The next surprise was Internet costs CUC$8 per hour, ouch and though I could get a Wifi signal in my room I could never connect had to go to the lobby, one hour lasted my whole stay. Locals do not have access to the Internet or Email. Skype is blocked and the only one of my SIM cards that got a signal was from India but when I tried to send a txt out of the country it was blocked.

Cuba is stuck in the 50-60’s with some beautiful old buildings and cars slowly disintegrating, they do have a very organised Tourist Department and tours everywhere so it must play an important part in their economy. Tourists were mainly (90%) from Russia, Eastern Europe and Latin America with a few German, French, Italian, Dutch, English, Chinese, Australian and Americans

Now for some unverified Tour Guide gossip

1. Castro once gave a speech that lasted 7 hours (Guinness Book of World Records)

2. When the Pope visited 2 million people came to see him

3. Medical care is free but drugs are in short supply

4. Education is free up to the 9th grade then you can do 5 years of University or Technical College, then a 2 year bond with the Government.

5. Most families live in one house, one family to a room, they can’t afford to build new houses.

6. The minimum monthly income is 200 local pesos or $8 (does not sound right)

7. 99% of business is State owned

8. Before the revolution Cuba was equally divided between Whites, Blacks and Chinese after the revolution all the Chinese left because they lost their businesses.

9. The old American Car Taxis are one of the few privately owned businesses; each driver pays a fixed tax to the Government and keeps the rest as income.

10. Churches are only open during Mass

11. Mangoes, Bananas, Tobacco and Sugarcane are the main crops.

12. Smoking is permitted everywhere, the only places I saw No Smoking signs was in the Tour Busses and in the Departure Lounge at the Airport and everyone smokes.

13. According to an English guy I met who has spent some time in this area Cuba is a paradise compared to the other drug and crime ridden Caribbean countries.

14. There is no advertising, no billboards, no neon signs and no shopping centres or malls.

15. Christmas and New Year are not celebrated

Freedom was declared on 1-Jan-1959, and this date is celebrated as Revolution Day every year and 53 years later they are still going on about the Revolution instead of moving on like every other country has done.

When they do move on they should be successful because corruption and crime have been almost eliminated

There are very few pictures of Castro and I did not see a single Statue of him so there is no Personality cult.

For all you travelers out there this is a useful website, I met the founder Elizabeth on one of the tours.

http://www.healthytravelersite.net/

Out of Cuba on 1-Jan-2012 from the Hotel to Airport in an old Lada taxi a bit like the old Fiat’s in Bombay held together with bits of string and wire hahahaha which had a leaky exhaust, that driver is going to die of carbon monoxide poisoning one of these days, its a toss up between that and lung cancer. You will need to set aside CUC$25 for the Taxi and another CUC$25 for the Departure Tax.

Arrived in Bogota, Columbia to wait for my bike and I am back online.

Posted in Cuba | Tagged | 7 Comments

Panama, Panama Canal, 21-23 Dec 2011

I dropped my bike off on Wednesday, you have to ride around the back of the airport to get to the Cargo Terminal. First stop is at the Aduana which is at the gate, get your TVIP exit permit here and also get the stamp in your passport to show your bike has left the country, enter and ride around to the right, go to the blue building, there are no signs, this is the Girag Air Cargo office, wait until they complete the paperwork then they will get someone to take you around the side where you leave your bike and pay the freight charges, walk back onto the road and look for a taxi $25 back to the city, stop the taxi at the gate and hand in a a copy of the shipping document that Girag gives you to the Aduana, keep your fingers crossed that your bike arrives in one piece.

I went to the Cuban embassy to ask about a Visa/Tourist permit, a big black lady at the front desk said in a forbidding voice in Spanish, “I do not speak English”, what a welcome, she did finish up smiling at my broken Spanish in the end, anyway it turns out that you can get your Tourist Permit in Havana, I think hahahaha.

Next day I went on a city tour to the Mira Flores Locks the first set on the Pacific side, there are two sets of locks on either side of the country, quite an amazing sight watching these huge ships rising in the locks and nothing much has changed since 1914.
A visit to the old Colonial city with narrow brick paved streets and a Cathedral. Hot and humid.

Posted in Panama | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Maps and Stats

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2022 Europe by Bike

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Stats Caribbean

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Posted in Maps | Tagged | 2 Comments

Panama, Panama City 19-20 Dec 2011

Left David at 0740 full wets on, no breakfast again but stomach feels better, two lane road for a while not much traffic winding through the hills at times, cool and cloudy then it became a 4 lane road and stayed that like that all the way to Panama City speeds 110-120kph most of the time fuel consumption goes up stopped for gas at 1010, lots of cops mostly single bikes parked on the side of the road watching traffic not doing anything about people speeding through 80kph zones which were the towns or on the highway except right where it was busy then they might step forward and traffic slows nothing else, it started to rain heavy at times  then stopped then started then luckily it stopped (my Nokia N8 GPS phone is not waterproof) just as I reached the outskirts of the City at 1200 pulled up and put the Nokia strap around my neck sharp curves for a while then traffic jam followed the Nokia maps and found the hotel easy arrived at 1240, 435km in 5 hours.

Called Girag Air Cargo but could not get anyone who could speak English the operator kept hanging up on me, decided to ride to the airport tomorrow and sort things out, went out to get some supplies then it started to pour again. The infrastructure in Panama is by far the most advanced of all the CA countries.

Woke up to no rain off to the airport at 0830, the Cargo terminal is around the back, found a couple of girls who worked there who spoke English one was black, there are a lot of blacks here and they speak English must be from the Caribbean side of Panama, after much discussion and Yes and No and Wait, because this is the Christmas break, there are no flights next week last one is Friday, they said I could leave the bike with them and they would try to get it on Fridays plane if not it would go on the first flight in the New Year and I could pick it up in Bogota, Columbia after I returned from Cuba, could not give me an exact date, cost $902 shipping and $200 storage, $1,102 for a 1.5 hour flight. Fingers crossed. Poured all afternoon, this rain is unseasonal its going to ease off tomorrow thankfully.

Posted in Panama | Tagged | 4 Comments

Panama, David, 18 Dec 2011

Left San Jose at 0740, no breakfast, had my wet weather gear on except for the over boots and gloves, cool, filled up at Cartago and then the road started to climb into the clouds, foggy, roads bumpy, wet and I was getting wet as well lucky I put my gear on but boots getting soaked, then the road turned to wet dirt for short stretches, kept climbing to over 3,300m fun except for the wet dirt some road works and overtaking trucks, not much traffic though, it got freezing at the top, after about 2 hours the road improved and started to descend and in 30min down to 500m went through San Isidro big town after that the road became bumpy and pot holed and followed the course of a river for some time, no traffic great ride the Vstrom handles the bumps really well, around 30k’s from the border it got really busy with local traffic then arrived at the border at 1230, 345k’s, 4:40min.

It was like a market place with cars and trucks everywhere stopped and asked a cop where the Costa Rica Immigration was and he pointed back the way I had come hahahaha, had to ride back through the traffic, small building, parked and a guy showed me where it was, an official was handing out forms, filled one in and stood in the queue, only about 6 people took about 10min and 1 min at the window then to the Aduana took 5 min filled in another form and had it processed and stamped and given back to me done by 1300, then a helper approached to do the Panama side, first photocopies $1, then I undressed and put all my gear away.

Sweltering now, rode to the Panama side and parked in front of the Immigration window about 100 people in the queue, went and got the Insurance $15, paid in Colones, the Exchange rate here is a rip-off 550:1 instead of 500:1, then had to go to another office and get the Insurance Cert stamped, then stood in the queue winding like a snake, no jumping the queue here, started pouring with rain, Helper went off and got the Fumigation Certificate $1, finally got to window at 1445, then Aduana handed in the papers and had to wait, Helper wanted to leave so I gave him my leftover Colones about $10, then a guy inspected the bike and asked me to open the panniers, I opened one and another guy came up and said no need so I closed up then he forgot to take the Customs form off me followed and gave it to him, then put all my wet weather gear on this time and off at 1515, 2:45min longest border crossing so far.

4 lane road patches of rain, arrived at David at 1550 filled up and rode around and looked for a hotel checked in at 1625, 395k’s in 8:45hrs long day, what a ride.

Posted in Costa Rica, Panama | Tagged , | 5 Comments

Costa Rica, San Jose, 16-17 Dec 2011

Left Playa Coco 0850 still feeling a little queasy so no food, this is a busy highway winding through the mountains lots of slow trucks and constant overtaking on narrow 2 lane roads, there were a few good bits with no traffic got to San Jose, most modern city so far but still no street names, I knew where my hotel was if I could just find the name of the street, asked for directions and slowly got closer then found it hahahaha, arrived at  1300, 250km, 4:10hrs, checked in and went to bed again.

Next day woke nearly back to normal, wandered around broad roads lots of Pedestrian only Spaces and people Christmas Shopping, visited the Museum well done, millions of Police all in pairs both men and women, not many native looking people, cool and cloudy with a cold breeze blowing here at 1000m.

Posted in Costa Rica | Tagged | 4 Comments

Costa Rica, Playa Coco, 15 Dec 2011

I went to bed feeling crook no dinner, nausea this time and woke up feeling worse, nearly stayed another day but took some pills and left the hotel at 0810, good road all the way to the border some slow traffic got there at 0940.

This is the most Bureaucratic and busiest border so far, again I paid to get through quickly, to add to the mess of stamps and paperwork there were about 5000 trucks lined up on both sides of the border and 200 Tour busses, every passenger has to go through Immigration on both sides and get their passport stamped, what a mess people and trucks and busses and cars everywhere. I won’t go into the details, this is what it cost – Exit Nicaragua, $1 for a ticket to get in, $1 to a kid to look after my bike, $12 for the Exit stamp, TVIP is free, $10 to jump the Immigration queue, $10 tip to the Helper = $34. Costa Rica is the worst so far, I had to go to about 4 different buildings all over the place back and forth to get various stamps etc, cost Immigration $10 to jump the queue, TVIP is free but $13.70 for Insurance, $4 weedkiller, $1 photocopies, $10 tip = $38.70. Total cost $72.70 all done by 1110 – 1:30hrs.

Costa Rica immediately feels like it is a notch up on the other Central American countries (except for their border crossing), no huts, good road signs with route numbers, no cars falling to bits and blowing clouds of smoke and the born again school busses have disappeared, arrived in Playa Coco (Coco Beach) a Tourist Village (American)  at 1250, 217km, 4:40hrs, checked into a hotel and went to sleep, went out a bit later bought some provisions, decided to stay on a liquid diet had to get some calories to keep the engine running, early night.

Posted in Costa Rica, Nicaragua | Tagged , | 3 Comments

Nicaragua, Granada, 13-14 Dec 2011

Left Managua at 1105 as it is only a short ride to Granada, good 4 lane road got stopped by a cop after about 30min, I was second in a line of 4 cars, the 1st guy pulled up and I pulled up behind him and the others slowed, he waved them all on except for me and then started in Spanish trying to say I had broken some rule asked for my Drivers Licence and money couldnt figure out how much, I just kept saying no and talking in English and using sign language to show that I was just following the cars we were not speeding or anything, he indicated he would keep my Drivers Licence so I said lets go and see a judge and see what he has to say, this guy must have known some English most Nicaraguans do and the authorities are trying to stamp out corruption, he then said “Cuando” asking how much I was willing to pay I said no again and he gave me back my DL and waved me on, last time this happened was in 2009 in a small town on the west coast of Mexico, play dumb, stick to your guns if you have done nothing wrong and wait the guy out and only talk English, kept going got to the hotel at around 1200 around 1 hour and 45km.

Had lunch at the park Granada’s signature dish Vigoron which is Yam topped with deep fried pork skin and chopped cabbage and chopped tomatoes and chilli not bad and a huge mug of  Papaya juice which was really good. Wandered around the town, there is a market and a million tourists and first time I have seen travel agents in Nicaragua. This place reminds me of a poorer version of Antigua in Guatemala.

Spent some time researching options to get across from Panama to Columbia, its a problem at this time of the year because of the holidays so I booked a flight to Cuba for a week over the holiday break, should be able to get a flight out to Columbia for me and the bike early in the New Year.

Posted in Nicaragua | Tagged | 4 Comments

Nicaragua, Managua, 11-12 Dec 2011

I left Tegucigalpa at 0805 this time taking the ring road around the city no traffic being Sunday took the Danli exit after watching my Nokia N8 closely, should have used the ring road when arriving, good road winding through the mountains cool had my inner jacket on top of my riding shirt, road deteriorated after about 60k’s not by much though, saw another section of road that had disappeared got stopped at Danli by cops they checked my papers and DL chatted about my trip for a while allowed me to take their pics and rode on.

Arrived at the border at 1005, both Honduras and Nicaragua Immigration and Customs were in huts and close together, this is an out of the way border crossing, parked and refused help at first there seemed to be only one guy and he started telling me what to do so I gave him my documents and he did the rest going into the offices and getting things stamped etc, Immigration was $3 and TVIP $10, he then took me across the border, bike had to be sprayed $3 and introduced me to the Nicaraguan Helper, the Honduras guy said his services were Gratis but I gave him $5 and my last Lempira 50 ($2.50), next Insurance done by an Agent $12 for 1 month, then Immigration $12 again bypassing the queue and Customs TVIP Free, the Honduras guy wanted $20, I gave him $10 and he shook hands and gave me a hug hahahaha, all done by 1045, changed $20 for Cordoba the rate this side is better 22:1, the Honduras side the guy was only offering 20:1 (official rate is 22.8:1), out of there at 1055, had to buy a National Park Donation Ticket for $1. Cost Honduras side $21.50 and Nicaragua side $37, Total=$58.50. This was the easiest and quickest Border Crossing so far only 45min, a bit like the Priority tickets you buy at Universal Studios and jump the queues hahahaha, capitalism at its finest.

Straight away onto a new road, very smooth no traffic and no speed bumps great ride gradually descending to the plains, 3 police check points I got waved through all of them cars had to stop, roadworks actually had traffic control with stop signs and two way radios, whoever is in charge of the Roads in this country knows what he is doing, more towns as I got closer to Managua which slowed things down but still way ahead of schedule arrived in Managua at 1400 stopped and filled up then followed the road until I thought I had gone too far then saw a sign for the National Assembly and turned left got to another major road and turned right and saw a Texaco stopped and asked the gas attendant for directions the hotel was about 300m away around 2 corners, what a fluke all the roads I had been on were broad and 4 lanes and very little traffic, checked in at 1435, 382km and 6:30hrs.There is a big modern Shopping Centre across the road and the ATM’s dispense USD$ as well as Cordoba.

The following day visited the Crazy Cathedral, Lake Managua and the National Palace / Museum, lots of rubbish lying around everywhere, the Cathedral is very unconventional and modern unpainted grey concrete weird no colours and not one bit of stained glass, stopped at the lake, the shoreline looks like a rubbish dump and the lake stinks, the National Palace and Museum not much in there, a few artefacts on one floor and some paintings out of there in 30min. Granada tomorrow only 45min away.

Posted in Honduras, Nicaragua | Tagged , | 2 Comments

Honduras, Tegulcigalpa, 9-10 Dec 2011

The first thing I was told when I checked in was not to take anything with me when I went out for a walk but it looks ok during the day in this area, brainwashing. The hotel has a 3m high wall topped with razor wire, then an electric fence and security cameras, some buildings have 2 rows of razor wire hahahaha

Went for a tour of the city which means hire a guide and a car like the other cities in this region, there are no group guided tours probably because there are no tourists. Its set in the middle of the mountains at 1000m so there are a lot of narrow, steep, winding streets. The old town is all one lane, one way streets and is clogged with traffic, a permanent traffic jam, Business, Banks and Embassies are all located in the area I am staying in away from the old town, there is no poverty in this area and there are also no Police, maybe thats why people are afraid to walk on the streets, in all the other countries Police and Military are everywhere.

The hotel website does not have a map of its location so I made one up and sent it to them to add to their website and they gave me a free nights stay, Thank You Senora, I spent all day in bed.

Posted in Honduras | Tagged | 1 Comment