Jordan, Wadi Rum and Aqaba, 13 – 16 May 2015

Wadi Rum (Valley of Rum), where Lawrence of Arabia used to hang out, desert and sandstone monoliths, a striking place.
I booked a tour out of Petra, cost JD65, plus JD5 entry to the Wadi Rum area, consisting of a shared taxi from Petra to Wadi Rum, tour of the area in a 4wd, 3 meals and a bed to sleep in, leaving the next morning in a shared taxi to Aqaba JD10.
A constant wind blows through the valley coating everything in a fine layer of sand and carving the sandstone into intricate shapes.

Aqaba, located at the tip of the Gulf of Aqaba, is Jordan’s only coastal city and seaport. It is a duty free city so there is security getting in and out and the taxi driver got fined for speeding on the way in so there is also law and order. Business and sea side resorts are the main attractions. There are 4 countries within a 20 km radius of this place, Saudi Arabia, Jordan, Israel and Egypt.

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Jordan, Wadi Musa (Petra), 11 – 12 May 2015

Wadi Musa (altitude 1000 meters) is the name of the town you stay in to visit Petra (Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade). The best way to get here from Amman is by Jett Bus, it takes 3.5 hrs and costs JD10. The bus leaves Amman at 0630 from the Jett Bus Office in Abdali, it does not leave from the Abdali Bus station. You can reserve a ticket online or by phone and then pay for it when you arrive to catch the bus, you cannot buy the ticket online. The bus has comfortable seats and is air-conditioned but not much leg room, it was only half full. Its worth noting that the bus does not stop at the Wadi Musa Bus station, it keeps going and only stops in the Parking area at the entrance to the Petra site about 2km further on. From there you have to get a taxi to your hotel, cost not more than JD2. The same bus returns to Amman at 1700, so you can visit Petra from Amman and return the same day.

Petra (entry JD50 0r USD$70), established around 300 BC and abandoned in 106 AD. It was the Capital city of the Nabataeans and is Jordan’s most visited tourist attraction.
Go early (0730), the tour busses start turning up at 1000 and it gets packed. Be prepared to walk at least 6-20 km depending on how far you want to go, the interesting bit is the narrow gorge to the iconic Treasury after that it opens up and you get to the Roman theatre and some tombs, about 4 km and then another 4 km to get back to the entrance, that’s as far as I got.

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Jordan, Amman, 07 – 10 May 2015

I flew EgyptAir from Luxor to Cairo and then to Amman, Jordan, two short flights. You can buy a Visa on Arrival cost JD40 (USD$57) at the Immigration Counter and pay for it with your credit card right there. I did not know this and withdrew money from an ATM, which I had to do anyway, there is a JD5 (USD$7) ATM fee in Jordan. There are money changers in this area as well. Amman Airport is about 40 km from the city and the taxi fare is Jordanian Dinar JD25 (USD$35) or you can get the Airport bus which is only JD1.50 plus 0.25 per suitcase (according to the airport website) and then a taxi to your hotel. Taxis are fairly cheap and have meters. I now have to advance the time 1 hour, that’s because Egypt is on the same time as Amsterdam, while Jordan is on Middle East time.

Amman, population 4 million, relatively clean, no visible pollution, good roads. The area is very hilly therefore you are always either walking up or down a hill hahaha good exercise. Tourism is one of Jordan’s main sources of income, they do not have any oil.

I bought a SIM card, used the taxi drivers ID to register it as I did not have my passport, Zain network, 3000 Zain min, 60 other min and 60 SMS plus 1GB data for JD10.50 about USD$15.

The Citadel (entry JD2) is on top of a hill and has been inhabited since 10,000 BC, the most notable features are a couple of pillars leftover from the Temple of Hercules, a small museum and the rest is mainly in ruins.

 

Roman Theatre, having seen about 300 of these things scattered all over Europe I did not go in, just took a picture from the street.

Rainbow Street, where its all happening is on top of a hill.

I hired a taxi for a tour of the Dead Sea area cost JD50 plus a JD5 tip, we left at 0830 and returned at 1430, 6 hours. Sites visited Madaba, Mt.Nebo, Dead Sea and Bethany.

Greek Orthodox Church, Madaba (entry JD1), famous for its mosaics.

 

Mount Nebo (entry JD1), Moses is buried somewhere around here.

Dead Sea, 350m below sea level, took some pictures from a viewpoint and moved on, apparently to go for a swim you have to use a private beach which costs JD20.

 

Bethany (entry JD12), where Jesus was thought to have been baptised by John. The Jordan river has changed course in the last 2000 years and the original baptism site is about 300m east of where the river currently flows. This site covers a large area, a minibus takes you to a certain point and after that it’s a 500m walk to the original Baptism site and then another 300m to the Jordan river. The river itself is not very wide and Israel is on the other side which looks well developed for tourism, with many pilgrims taking a dip in the water.

Jordan Museum (entry JD5), this is a new museum, modern and well laid out, focusing on the Nabataean Culture.

 

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Egypt, Luxor, 03 – 06 May 2015

I travelled by train from Aswan to Luxor, a guy from the hotel bought my ticket, cost LE50 for 1st class Air-conditioned. There were 3 other foreigners in my compartment and I met someone who got on and bought a ticket on the train. Its better to have a ticket before you get on, then you have an assigned seat number and don’t have to move around because you are sitting in someone else’s seat.

Luxor Temple (entry LE60), this temple is in the heart of the town. The woman selling tickets gave me LE20 change for a 100 and said “no change” so I asked to see and she showed me some notes, one of them was a 50 so I took the 50 and gave her a 10. These people are government employees. More tourists here than in Cairo and Aswan where there were practically none.

Karnak Temple (entry LE80), about 2.7km up the road from the Luxor temple, an avenue used to connect them once upon a time. Huge complex most of it still in ruins. Taxi fare between the two is LE10.

Nile cruise

Valley of the Kings (entry LE100 for 3 tombs), I hired a car and driver cost LE130. Situated on the west bank of the Nile (Luxor and Karnak temples are on the East bank), these tombs are spread over a large area and there are hundreds of them, only about 8 are open to the public, no photos allowed but baksheesh is the answer.

Hatshepsut Temple (entry LE50)

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Egypt, Aswan, 01 – 03 May 2015

I flew from Cairo to Aswan by EgyptAir, USD$68 and 1.5 hours booked through the EgyptAir website, taxi from my hotel near Tahrir Square to the Airport cost LE70. The alterative is a night sleeper train that takes 12 hours and costs $120. They will not sell a foreigner a ticket for any of the day trains (too dangerous) but apparently you can get a local person to buy one for you. Taxi from Aswan airport to the town is about LE75.

I hired a car and driver for a tour of Aswan, cost LE300 for half a day, everything here is more expensive than Cairo.

Aswan Dam (entry LE30), completed in 1971, the reservoir is 500km long and covers an area of 6,000 square km, extending into Sudan.

Philae Temple (entry LE60 + LE85 for boat hire), is on an island and was also relocated.

Unfinished Obelisk (entry LE40), intended to be the biggest, abandoned because it cracked, gives you an insight into how they were constructed.

Nile Cruise, Kitchener Island or Aswan Botanical Gardens (entry E20), created by an Englishman and donated to the City, you can hire a boat for LE70 per hour to visit the Island.

The main reason for coming to Aswan is to visit the Abu Simbel Temple complex situated 280 km south of Aswan near the border with Sudan. These two temples were moved here from another location which is now underwater as a result of the Aswan Dam being built, the dismantling and reconstruction is an amazing feat in itself.
You have to travel to this place in a convoy, the first convoy is for Public vehicles, buses etc, this is the big convoy, leaves at 0400, takes 3 hours to get there, you get 2 hours to look around and then 3 hours back. The second convoy which is for Private vehicles leaves at 1100 and returns at 1900. I hired a car and driver for USD$110 and went in the second convoy which turned out to be my car and one other minibus with Chinese tourists. We were the lead car so I had a policeman with a machinegun in the back seat, he slept most of the way and as we were travelling at 120 kph the minivan could not keep up and arrived about 20 minutes after us so it was not much of a convoy hahaha.

No photos allowed inside the Temples until you tip the guy LE25

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Egypt, Cairo, 24 – 30 April 2015

I left Perth on the 22nd of April and arrived in Cairo (via Heathrow & Athens) in the early hours of the 24th, 45 hours door to door. Why this convoluted route, blame the Russians and their visa processing times, long story, I was meant to be riding across Russia this year. Now postponed to next year.

Due to the 90 day Schengen visa rule I had to find somewhere else to be outside of the EU, first stop Cairo.

You need a visa to enter Egypt. It is basically a stamp that costs USD$25 and you can buy it from any one of the many banks and money changers before you get to the Immigration counter at the airport. There is also an ATM in this area.
Hand in the stamp and your passport to the Immigration officer and he will stick the stamp in your passport, collect your baggage and off you go. Taxi fare to Tahrir Square should be around 75 Egyptian Pounds or USD$10

Big city, population 17 million, crowded, dusty, noisy, chaotic and the largest metropolitan area in Africa.

The main reason to come here would be to visit the Pyramids, quite amazing. The dedication, technological and organisational skills that were required to build these structures have obviously been lost somewhere along the way.

There are two subway lines, they are clean and functional but crowded, cost one Egyptian pound a ride which is less than 20 cents. I only rode the subway once, the rest of the time I walked or hired a car and driver for the day, cost USD$33 per day.

One of the first things I did was get a local SIM card for my phone. Vodafone, total cost was LE 81 (USD$11) out of which I got LE 25 credit for talk and SMS plus 1.25 GB data, very cheap. I did not have to show ID or do anything other than hand over the cash. After you get the SIM card its best to have an Arabic speaker, possibly someone from your hotel, help you set it up because its all in Arabic.

The journey from Perth to Cairo

The Egyptian Museum (entry LE 75) has a huge collection from the time of the Pharaohs but it is poorly displayed, dark, dusty and the place is falling to bits, no photos, still a must see.

Giza Pyramids (entry LE 100), you will be offered a tour on a horse, camel or in a carriage, the best way to see this place is on foot. You can also go into the pyramids, narrow, low, dark passages I did not go into any of them.

Saqqara (entry LE 80), this is an area south of Cairo where an earlier stepped pyramid (Djoser’s) is located.

Memphis (entry LE 40), the ancient capital of Egypt has a huge statue of Ramses II

Alexandria, I hired a car and driver for this trip USD$90, 2.5 hours and 220 km, you leave at 0630 in the morning and return 12 hours later.

First stop Catacombs but they said no electricity come back after 3-4 hours so we drove to Pompey’s Pillar (entry LE 30) next to the Roman Theatre (entry LE 30), next Qaitbay Fort, the woman at the ticket counter very rudely said “no change” so I took some pictures from the outside and left, next the Library, they said not open until 1200 so I took some pictures and left, back to the Catacombs (entry LE 40) which had found some electricity, I gave the woman at the ticket counter 2 x 20’s and she gave me a ticket then as I was walking away she tried to say I had only given her 25, I said no I gave you 2 x 20’s and she said OK, this trick has been tried on me before hahaha.

Cairo Tower (entry LE70), gives you a good view of the air you breathe in this city.

Coptic Cairo consists of a cemetery, Church of Virgin Mary, Church of St.George and a Museum (entry LE 60)

The Citadel (entry LE60) is a huge fort, the main attraction is the Military Museum and it was closed for renovation, there is also a very small Police museum and a big Mosque.

Islamic Cairo has a couple of old Mosques (entry LE 40) and the Khan el-Khalili market

 

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Turkey, Antalya, 14 – 16 January 2015

Antalya is located on the Turkish Riviera and is Turkey’s biggest resort city, population 1 million, modern with an old city that has been renovated.

From Pamukkale I got a minibus to Denizli 30 minutes and a bus from Denizli to Antalya 3.5 hours, total cost 40 lira. Taxi from the bus station to my hotel in Kaleici 29 lira.

 

 

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Turkey, Pamukkale, 12 – 13 January 2015

Pamukkale is where you stay to visit the ancient city of Hierapolis (yes, another ancient city) and its hot springs. The hot springs have turned the surrounding area white with limestone deposits. It snowed all night so everything is covered in snow and looks white anyway hahaha.

Its a 3 hour ride by minibus from Selcuk, cost 35 lira.

 

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Turkey, Selcuk, 10 – 11 January 2015

Selcuk (pronounced Sell-chook) is where you stay to visit the ancient Greek city of Ephesus built around the 10th century BC, the house where Mary (mother of Jesus) might have lived and the church of St.John where he might have written his Gospel.

It is an uncomfortable hours minibus ride from Izmir, cost 10 lira.

From Selcuk you can take a minibus (20 min) to Sirince where you can sample some of the locally grown grape juice.

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Turkey, Izmir, 07 – 09 January 2015

Izmir once known as Smyrna, third largest city in Turkey, population 4 million, modern, with good public transport and sunshine hahaha, first time I have seen the sun since Spain.

I got a minibus from Kent Meydani in Bursa to the bus terminal cost 2 lira, from the bus terminal there are many buses leaving for Izmir, cost 35 lira, journey time 5 hours including a 30 min break. Once you arrive in Izmir there are free mini buses to various parts of the city.

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