Croatia – Dubrovnik, Cavtat 04 – 07 June 2018

The ride from Split to Dubrovnik on the D8 was as good as ever but busier with many small towns all of which offer accommodation for tourists. I had to pass through a sliver of Bosnia to get to Dubrovnik, short queue of cars, I had my passport and bike insurance ready, took my helmet and glasses off and the guy did not even open my passport just gave it back to me and waved me on hahaha, same for the Bosnia guy. Then a short ride through Bosnia and the town of Neum and the next border crossing back into Croatia, this time I got waved through both sides. They were checking the documents of people in cars not sure what the criteria is, maybe Bike riders are considered harmless.

Dubrovnik, the most popular tourist destination in Croatia and a UNESCO heritage site, millions of tourists and its not even peak season as yet. Generally speaking Croatia is one of the cheapest places to visit in Europe but Dubrovnik is the exception with prices being 3 t0 4 times more expensive than other parts of the country.

I stayed at a guesthouse above the old town and it was on a street that turned out to be a flight of stairs hahaha. All the horizontal streets are actual roads but the vertical streets in this area are all stairs and each house has a street number. Building the houses must have meant they carried all the materials down or up the stairs. There is a very good bus network with modern busses, cost 15 kuna a ride if you buy your ticket on the bus or 12 kuna if you buy it in advance at any small shop/kiosk. The main bus station for the old town is called Pile (Peelay).

Day trip to Cavtat by boat, picturesque little seaside town between two peninsulas shaped like a claw. The boat leaves from the Dubrovnik old town Harbour, 80 kuna return and takes about an hour each way with a couple of stops on the way. There is a pathway that goes right around the bigger arm of the claw with small beaches and cafes.

I took the cable car to the top of the mountain where there is a fort and inside the fort is the war museum, cost 150 kuna for the ride and 30 kuna for the musuem. Good views of Dubrovnik from the top, the museum is about the 1991 war when Serbia and Montenegro tried to capture Dubrovnik and damaged the city with cannon fire and bombs.

And finally I walked around the town on top of the Wall that surrounds it which is an unbroken pathway. As the wall follows the contours it goes up and down with many steps, knee punishment and I paid 150 kuna for this torture, you have been warned hahaha.

 

 

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Croatia – Split, Hvar, Trogir 31 May – 03 June 2018

Zadar to Split on the D8, many small village and towns along the coast, slow going with the occasional stretch of clear road, interesting ride with great views.

Split, a major port and second largest city in Croatia and famous for the Palace of Diocletian. You can also get ferries to various islands from here, lots of tourists coming and going.

Day trip to Hvar town on Hvar Island from Split, this is a big island and a popular destination. The ferry ticket on Kapetan Luka is 90 Kuna each way and you buy it from a kiosk at the start of the pier. There are a number of departures every day and there is accommodation on the island.

Day trip to Trogir from Split by ferry, there are a number of departures everyday, cost 30 kuna one way, buy your ticket on the boat. This is also an island but only just, its connected to the mainland by a very short bridge. It is a UNESCO world heritage site. Narrow streets packed with restaurants and tourists. If you want a meal and a drink at half price just cross the bridge to the mainland, there is a big market and many restaurants.

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Croatia – Zadar, 28 – 30 May 2018

I followed the freeway from Zagreb to the coast and then turned off onto the D8 which has to be one of the great biking roads of the world. It follows the coast almost all the way with mountains on one side and the sea on the other, many small villages and hundreds of bikes on the road enjoying the ride and the sunshine.

Zadar, an ancient city, the oldest in Croatia, the old town has narrow winding streets and many tourists.

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Croatia – Zagreb and Njivice, 21 – 27 May 2018

Trieste, Italy to Zagreb, Croatia through Slovenia via Rijeka. It is important to remember that Slovenia is part of the EU and the Schengen area but while Croatia is part of the EU it is not part of the Schengen area. Therefore you must get stamp showing you have exited Slovenia (Schengen area) and another stamp showing you have entered Croatia.  By default the immigration officers at road border crossings leaving the Schengen area do not do this, they just wave you through and only the country your are entering stamps your passport. So you have to ask for both of the stamps. This is to avoid being held up at the airport by mentally deficient immigration officials when flying out of the Schengen area. They can not grasp the fact that if you have a stamp showing that you have entered one country, it means that you have left the other and its happened to me twice both times at Schiphol airport.

Fine and cloudy weather, cold through the mountains which rise to 800m on the road to Zagreb and the numerous roadworks holding everyone up. I travelled the back roads up to Rijeka and then onto the freeway to Zagreb, 6 euro in tolls for a motorcycle.

Zagreb Zagreb has changed considerably in the intervening 5 years since I last visited, the centre of the city and the tourist areas have been renovated and look very nice now. Once again I am visiting a friend.

From Zagreb we drove to Njivice on the island of Krk for a couple of days. A small town which idles away the off season months and wakes up for the tourist season.

 

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Italy – Trieste, 18 – 20 May 2018

Ingolstadt to Trieste, great ride over the alps with only a few patches of drizzle, hundreds of bikes on the road. I first had to stop in Rosenheim at the Louis Bike shop to buy a new Bike alarm, the siren stopped working on the one I had installed on my bike. I went over 3 passes, the Plocken being the highest and one 5km long tunnel with drizzle on one side and sunshine on the other. The changing altitude caused a few dizzy spells, scary.

I was in Trieste last year same time and stopped over to catch up with friends. I also got my first parking ticket ever for parking on the footpath, the cop must have been having a bad day 40 euro.

 

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Germany – Ingolstadt, 16 – 17 May 2018

Veghel to Ingolstadt, 7 hours along the Autobahn, one lane occupied by a line of trucks, long stretches of road works slowing everyone to a crawl, 2 stops, €0.70 cents to use the toilet, a 10 min downpour, wet roads and cold 15c after that.

Ingolstadt, home of the Audi headquarters, Museum and main factory and the sole reason for my visit. It is also where the Illuminati was founded and where Frankenstein made his creature.

The whole Audi complex was immaculate and state of the art, the best of any of the German manufacturers that I have seen. You normally have to book ahead for the Factory tour but I was lucky and there was a vacancy. The English tour starts at 11:30 and takes 2 hours it is the only factory that I have seen where the workers wear a light grey uniform with white T-shirts (no photos). The entrance fee to the Museum was €2 and the factory tour was €7, lunch at the self serve restaurant cost €6, no gouging here either.

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UK and Netherlands – Hastings, Veghel and Winsum – 29 April – 15 May 2018

I arrived in Hastings where my bike is based during the winter months on 29 April 2018 after a marathon 34 hour journey from Perth. First I charged the battery and it fired up immediately then it had to have the annual MOT safety inspection, new Chain and Sprockets and an Oil change, ready to go now. Only thing left to do was sample some British ale and catch up with friends.

The ride from Hastings to Veghel was completed in fine and sunny, warmer towards the end weather. Again a catch up with friends stop.

I also rode to Winsum to spend the weekend with another friend, located near the North Sea Coast, this is where the Dykes keep the Netherlands from becoming another Atlantis. The people who live here also speak a dialect that is incomprehensible to the other Dutch hahaha.

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Malaysia – Malacca, 07 – 12 January 2018

You can get to Inchon airport from Seoul either by the Metro and then the AREX Airport train or by special Airport buses which leave from various points around Seoul, about an hours journey. Train costs $5 and the bus $15, on the train you could be standing all the way. My hotel was a short walk from the bus stop so I took the bus which was very comfortable.

There are buses leaving at least every hour from Kuala Lumpur Airport (KLIA2) to Malacca, the journey takes 2 hours, costs RM24.30 and the seats are very comfortable. You buy your ticket from a booth on the ground floor and the bus leaves from just outside the entrance a short walk from the ticket booth. At the airport I also bought a Digi SIM card for RM20 good for a week and withdrew cash from an ATM.

Malacca – first colonised by the Portuguese (1511) then the Dutch and finally the British, old world charm with well preserved colonial buildings, the Malacca river lined with cafe’s, a mix of old and new, I will be back.

 

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South Korea – Seoul, 23 December – 06 January 2018

Yangon to Seoul via Kuala Lumpur was the first time I have had any significant delays in the over 180 flights I have been on in the last 10 years. Normally the KL to Seoul flight takes about 6:30 hours, this time it took nearly 14 hours. When we arrived over Inchon there was fog so we circled for 1:30 hours then were diverted to Gimpo to refuel and wait, not allowed off the plane. After 3:30 hours we were allowed to take off and more circling before we finally landed at 21:05.

Seoul, one of my favourite cities. It’s huge with a variety of restaurants both big and small,  craft beer is popular and the people are friendly and helpful. It also has the best public transport system on the planet, well organised, spotlessly clean and not expensive. This will be the third big city I have visited on New Year’s day, New York, Istanbul and now Seoul. Christianity is the largest organised religion (28%) in South Korea so Christmas is also celebrated with all the usual trappings. It is also very cold in winter with temperatures below zero most of the time, dropping to -13c overnight at one point. Definitely stay indoors with comfort food and beer kind of weather hahaha.

This is the best and cheapest place to buy your SIM card for Korea http://www.krsim.net/. You buy and pay for it online and pick it up at the airport, it will only start working the following day if you arrive after business hours.

Day trip to Yeongwol, this is the town to which King Danjong who became King at the age of 12 was exiled by his evil Uncle and later murdered. From Yeongwol I drove with a friend to the Buseoksa Temple. The people who built these monuments and temples always built them on top of hills obviously to punish the sinners on the way up before forgiving them if they managed to make it to the top.

New Years Fireworks

Seoul Sky – the top of Lotte World Tower, 5th tallest building in the world.

Night visit to Mount Namhan to see the lights of Seoul, very slippery.

 

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Myanmar – Bagan, 19 – 21 December 2017

From Mandalay I travelled by boat to Bagan. This boat was not the usual ferry but a tour boat slightly more expensive and comfortable with breakfast, lunch and a village tour included. I bought the ticket online at http://www.alliancemyanmarrivercruise.com/. Depart at 0635 and arrive in Bagan at 1740, journey time 11:05 hours, speed 20kph, we lost about an hour in the morning when we twice had to moor near the riverbank due to heavy fog. After you get off the boat there is a check point where you pay the Bagan zone fee of US$20 or 25,000 kyat.

Bagan – the city of Temples, more than 2000 of them and that’s what’s left over from the original 10,000. They are spread out over a vast area, you need some form of transport to get around, I had a car, driver and a guide. The guide was a bonus he was practising his English and learning the job. Shoes and socks off and on at each Pagoda, wear sandals.

Today we drove to Popa hills, stopped on the way at a place that makes products from the Palm tree and peanuts. First grinding peanuts for the oil using a bull to pull a grinder while walking around in circles. Next collection of the sap from the Palm trees using a ladder and pots, next tasted the 3 kinds of toddy extracted from the sap, sweet and fresh (no alcohol), 5% alcohol (like beer), next distilled spirit (firewater), all tasted good. Next to where an old woman was stirring the sap in several large woks over a fire waiting for it to thicken after which it is divided into small chunks to dry into palm jaggery. From the jaggery they make various sweets mixed with Ginger, Sesame & Coconut and dark jaggery. From the palm leaves they make toys, roofs and walls, from the trunks they make furniture.

There is a temple on top of one of the Popa Hills with hundreds of monkeys running around, stealing and fighting. I walked halfway to the top and stopped at the point where I had to take my shoes and socks off, balancing without them on is difficult on uneven surfaces. On the way back we stopped at another temple on a hill and then a visit to a village where they also sold handicrafts, then we visited a few more Pagodas.

Finally back to the hotel to wait for pickup to the bus station at 2100. On the bus at 2130 departed at 2140, new modern Scania with large comfortable seats, 3 seats across in a 1-2 arrangement, I had a single, total 9 rows of seats 27 passengers max. Snack box and juice handed out at the start, EU 2 pin outlet for each seat. Stopped at 0120 for half an hour at Napyidaw toll gate rest stop which had a few restaurants busy with passengers eating. Arrived in Yangon at 0540, the bus station is quite a distance from the centre of the city past the airport unlike the train station which is right in the centre of town.

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