Netherlands, Veghel, 19 – 30 July 2022

My knee was not getting any better so I decided to cut my trip short and head for home. I was planning to ride to Cyprus and then the North Cape.

Zagreb to Regensberg in Germany goes through Slovenia and Austria both of which require vignettes for their freeways and there are a couple of long tunnels that have their own tolls (€10 & €6). Slovenia eVignette costs €7.50 for 7 days and Austria €5.60 for 10 days and you buy them online. I had to say I was a business customer to get the Austrian one immediately or I would have had to wait four weeks, give any name as the Business name and an address, nobody cares. The only reason for this ridiculous step is Austrian consumer law which allows you to claim a refund within 28 days if you are Private but with the Business eVignette there is no refund. You can also stop and buy a vignette at Service stations on either side of the border and make sure you do that before you cross the border, a friend got fined €300 because they waited too long after crossing the border to buy the Paper Vignette which is a sticker and very hard to remove. Had to remember to get a stamp in my passport when re-entering the Schengen area at the Slovenia border. Beautiful ride through the mountains most of the way in warm and sunny weather 585km in 7:08hrs. This was just an overnight stop at a motel near the freeway.

Regensberg to Veghel – fine and hot weather 35c with many roadworks. Got stuck for 20min boiling in my jacket when one truck ran into the back of another at some roadworks which narrowed the freeway down to one lane, 666kms in 7:35hrs. There was a festival on in Veghel which was nice.

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Croatia, Zagreb, Krk Island, Batina, 02 – 18 July 2022

Palazzolo to Trieste on the freeway then onto back roads into Slovenia, no border stop. Arrived at the Croatian border and there was a long queue, people heading for the coast on the weekend. Rode on the wrong side of the narrow road, no traffic coming the other way and got to the front, one car would not let me in but the next guy did hahaha. Got waved through immigration but remembered to stop and ask for a stamp in my passport to show I have exited the Schengen area. Next time there should be no queues or immigration as Croatia will have joined the EU and the Schengen area. Short ride to the freeway past Rijeka and then another freeway all with Toll stops. If you ever drive this way always take the Bankcard lanes at the toll stops especially when you get to the Zagreb exit, the cash lane is kilometers long, in the Bankcard lane you either drive straight through or there is a short queue on the weekend, and pay with your credit card, 327km in 4:55hrs. I hurt my knee in Italy and decided to take a break here staying at a friends place for some R&R.

Zagreb – not my first visit, Croatia is a great place to spend some time but try to avoid the Summer peak season.

Njivice, Krk Island – Trip to the seaside.

Batina – a trip to the Danube drama included. The Danube is the border between Croatia and Serbia and people cross it all the time to visit a restaurant, friends, relatives, to do some shopping etc. We crossed this border twice for a meal during my stay here. The first time coming back took an hour at least as they were searching cars for drugs. The second time we were right at the immigration booth with one car ahead of us when there was an explosion and the car in front of us caught on fire. The couple in the car jumped out and ran and we and the cars behind us frantically reversed to put some distance between us and the fire. The immigration people were running around clueless until a truck driver who was in the queue behind us brought the fire extinguisher from his truck and put the fire out. Next the Authorities were called and they and a fire engine and crew turned up about an hour later hahaha while traffic piled up on both sides of the border. The other lane was clear but nobody was allowed to cross until an investigation was completed by a Magistrate and nobody could tell us when he would arrive from the nearest town. Therefore we had to turn around and head for the next border crossing and it took 3 hours to get back to Croatia instead of 10 minutes. The fire was probably caused by a fuel leak under the bonnet not a terrorist bomb hahaha.

Spot the non-Croatian beer.

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Italy, Palazzolo dello Stella, Lignano Sabbiadoro, Codroipo, Koper (Slovenia), 23 June – 01 July 2022

Getting out of Milan was nearly as bad as Antwerp, trucks and more trucks and tolls. After about 200km traffic eased and I could cruise along in fine and hot 35c weather. Two fuel stops and one very long traffic jam which I got around by riding down the emergency lane. Tolls €27.20, 374km in 4:21hrs.

Palazzolo dello Stella – I spent a few days here visiting friends and the surrounding area.

Lignano Sabbiadoro – This is a popular seaside town where many Germans and Austrians have holiday homes.

Codroipo – Stopped for an Espresso and Croissant.

Koper in Slovenia – This is Slovenia’s only major port and it has an interesting old town.

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Italy, Milan, Alfa Romeo Museum, 19 – 22 June 2022

From Logroño I rode to La Jonquera an overnight stop near the freeway. 612kms in 6:05 hours with 3 fuel stops, 4 lanes all the way with very little traffic and only one toll stop €16.45. Spain is eliminating Tolls and demolishing the Toll Plaza infrastructure, there are a few still left in the North West of the country. Windy with many Wind Turbines in parts.

Then to Frejus in France another overnight stop near the freeway. This starts on the busiest Freeway in France and continues all the way along the South Coast of France, trucks occupying 2 lanes most of the time, winding roads and tunnels, no time to relax. Stopped for tolls 6 times, first to take a ticket and at the end pay for the ride €15.10, €2.70, €6.10, distance 445kms in 4:36hrs

Until I arrived at Lianate on the outskirts of Milan where the Alfa Romeo Museum is located. I crossed over from France to Italy at some point probably in the middle of a tunnel. 4 tolls stops on the French side €2.30 for 28km, €1.90 for 28km, then €0.90 no receipt, €1.70 for 20km, mind boggling. Tunnel, viaduct, roadworks, tunnel, viaduct, roadworks all along the coast until I turned North to Milan, beautiful views along the coast. The Italian Toll Department only asks you to take a ticket at the beginning and pay for it at the end, therefore only 2 stops €29.50 for 295kms exactly €10 per 100km. But when I arrived at the Ring road around Milan I had to pay two tolls (€3.30 and €0.80) hahaha, usually once you get to a city there are no Tolls but not in Milan. The traffic is almost as bad as Antwerp without throwing Toll stops into the mix.

The Alfa Romeo Museum in Milan, one of the best of its kind.

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Spain, Logroño, 16 – 18 June 2021

Pamplona to Logroño – a short ride 104kms in 1:10hrs.

Logroño is the capital of La Rioja a major wine producing region in Spain and Rioja wine has been accredited with “denominación de origen calificada” . It is also famous for several streets that specialise in Tapas bars but you would have to stay here for a year to sample them all hahaha. Calle Laurel is the most well known street. The first day was 40c, the next 41c and the third day was 42c but no rain so I was happy.

The museum was free, surprisingly well organised and immaculate.

Concatedral de Santa María de la Redonda

Calle Laurel, party street

Laguardia is a village on a hill that is riddled with tunnels dug during the Middle Ages as a place to hide from invaders. They are now used to make wine. I went on a tour of one of them. By bus it takes 30 minutes to get there from Logrono and costs 1.90 Euro.

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Spain, Pamplona, 13 – 15 June 2022

Bayonne to Pamplona over the Western end of the Pyrenees. Maximum altitude 718m compared to 1,818m when I crossed over from Toulouse into Spain. Once I got past the villages in the foothills good ride through the mountains in fine and cool weather upto Elizondo.

Elizondo – a Basque town in the mountains, made famous by Dolores Redondo in the Baztan Triology. Having read the books I had to see the town for myself and as I was passing through I stopped and walked around, very pretty. From there to Pamplona I joined up with a 4 lane highway with trucks, looks like they are headed for France by another route. Distance 104kms, time 2:44hrs.

Pamplona – where the Running of the Bulls takes place every year. This is where the bulls chase a crowd through the narrow streets of the town. The runners wear white with a red scarf and a few get gored every year while the Bulls finish up in the Bull ring where they will be killed. The city also has some impressive defensive fortifications and an interesting Church.

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France, Bayonne and Biarritz, 10 – 12 June 2022

Bilbao in Spain to Bayonne in France both in Basque country. Short ride 2:05hrs and 159kms with 6 Toll stops and €24.77 in tolls, a real nuisance. At one stop the system did not detect my bike and did not ask me to pay, I was stuck holding up traffic, so I pushed the Help button and after a few minutes the bar was raised without me having to pay, first time for everything. More traffic and more trucks on the winding mountain roads not a good combination with trucks trying to overtake trucks and blocking both lanes.

Bayonne – I came here mainly to visit the Basque Museum and Biarritz. The old town itself is very nice with narrow lanes and cobblestone streets, many street cafe’s and tourists wandering around. There are also free bike parking spots around the town. The Saturday market was in full swing when I was there with some genuine local produce.

Biarritz – Once a playground for the rich and famous, now everyone goes there. Not a bad place if it stops raining hahaha. I took a bus from Bayonne to Biarritz €2.20 for a 24 hour ticket wandered around, it is not very big, had lunch, wandered around some more dodging rain showers and back on the bus.

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Spain, Bilbao, 07 – 09 June 2022

The ride from Santiago de Compostela to Bilbao was fun, through the mountains all the way, there was only a short stretch of toll road at the beginning which I avoided by going down a back road. The back roads are fun but the speed limit is 90kph which is ignored, mostly. A Police car went past in the opposite direction when I was doing 110kph and I was worried for a few minutes because in Australia that would mean they would do a U turn and come after me to save the world from a dangerous criminal and fine me $800 but here in Spain even the Police acknowledge it is not a heinous crime. Police motorcyclists wave to me as they go past at a 150kph hahaha. 566kms in 6:12hrs.

First stop was the Guggenheim Museum, Bilbao fantastic architecture and some fantastic exhibits inside, in other words, come and see for yourself. As a bonus there was a special exhibition of iconic automobiles.

The old town is the next place to go in Balboa. For a change it was not raining, I wandered around, had lunch at the Market, a huge variety of Pinchos which are tapas by another name, nothing particularly remarkable in the rest of the city. Went on a ride on the Funicular to a lookout with views of the city.

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Spain, Santiago de Compostela, 05 – 06 June 2022

Porto to Santiago de Compostela short ride all on the freeway 4 toll stops €22.35 for 233kms in 2:22hrs. A bus ticket for the same journey only costs €20 and you don’t have to pay for your own fuel hahaha. Anyway good ride in fine and cool weather along winding roads, no rain is always a plus.

The next day dawned cloudy, windy and the weather gods threw in a drizzle just for fun. My advice is to stay away from the Atlantic coast, stick to the Mediterranean coast or the Interior of Spain unless you like gloomy weather.

A bus into town cost me €1 and I optimistically did not even bring a jacket, 16c and a drizzle, headed straight for the Cathedral Museum where I spent 3 hours. It is in three separate buildings and then there is the Cathedral itself, very few English translations so you will have to guess what the exhibits represent.

Saint James has an interesting and controversial history, nevertheless he is the Patron Saint of Spain and is very popular.

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Portugal, Cabo da Roca and Porto, 01 – 04 June 2022

Merida to Cabo da Roca started out as a fine day but when I crossed the border into Portugal it started to rain. This time I made the wise decision to take the freeway and pay the hefty tolls (€20.35 and 3 stops, 230kms) because the last time I was here I used the backroads and getting through Lisbon on the slippery cobblestones while it was raining was not nice hahaha live and learn. The toll roads are a nuisance, you usually have to stop, take a ticket at the beginning and at the end present the ticket to a machine or and operator and pay the toll, a motorcycle is in the lowest class, cars pay much more. Each time I have to stop take my gloves off, fish around for my wallet, pay the toll or put the ticket away and struggle to put on wet gloves again. Anyway I arrived at Cabo da Roca which is the Western most point of the European Continent and the rain stopped, it was still cold and windy. Beautiful views with a few tourist busses, it must be a regular stop, I took a few photos and was on my way. I stayed in a small village nearby called Almoçageme, all the roads here are steep, narrow, winding and some are made of cobblestones. 328kms in 4:04hrs

Frome Almoçageme I rode to Porto famous for producing Port. Getting back on the freeway through the back roads took a while with Garmin directing me down roads that were probably meant for horses not motor vehicles, a few missed turns later I was off and running, back on the freeway or Autopista. 363kms in 4:04hrs This time 2 toll stops and €27.20.

Porto is hilly, up and down and some streets turn into stairs hahaha. The place where everyone hangs out is Ribeira on the river bank, the other side of the river is Gaia an easy walk across the steel bridge. I walked down to Ribeira but to get out of there I took an Uber, for around €5 you can get around the city area. There should be a lift and a Funicular to get you back to the top but neither of them was working. I spent most of my time wandering the hilly streets looking for Street art while dodging rain showers. Never did get to find all the art, too many hills and showers.

A word of warning, when you order a meal at a restaurant in Portugal you will be brought bread and a few side dishes that you assume are part of your order. Assume not because if you touch any of them you will be charged extra usually an outrageous price. Let me give you an example, I ordered a glass of wine and it came along with a small bowl of olives, this is common practice in Spain and anywhere else, the olives or peanuts or whatever are free. I also ordered a meal, when I was given the bill, the wine was €3, the 10 or so olives were €2.20. No credit cards only cash so I paid in cash and was given change which I counted and it was €1 short, I pointed this out and they brought me the correct change. Another place charged me for bread which they brought along with some other stuff, none of which I touched and when I pointed this out they said Sorry and brought me the correct change. You have been told.

And of course I had to do a tour of the most iconic brand of Port in Porto “Sandeman”. A tip, if you look online the bookings will show Full but if you go to the counter in Gaia you will get a place if not the same day then the next day. That is what I did.

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