Ukraine, Odessa, 28 – 31 July 2019

The ride from Kiev to Odessa was in fine and warm weather, 4 lanes all the way, rough in parts but easy to maintain 110 kph. 487 km in 5:20 hrs with 2 fuel stops. This is the end of my outward journey. From Odessa I head back to Western Europe.

Odessa – This is a seaside resort in summer and is crowded with tourists from inland and the surrounding countries. It is also a major port and has an interesting mix of people from different ethnic backgrounds. A dark part of its history was the 1941 massacre of over a hundred thousand Jews by the Nazi’s.

 

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Ukraine, Kiev, 25 – 27 July 2019

Kiev is know for its Street Art / Murals, these are commissioned works by professional artists. This is the Walking Tour I followed.

 

St.Sophia’s Cathedral

The National Museum, St.Andrew’s, St.Michael’s, Friendship Arch, Kiev Pechersk Lavra

Kiev’s subway stations are supposed to be beautiful but while some of them are nice, they are not in the same class as the Stations in Moscow. The trains themselves are the same old bangers used in all the CIS countries. I followed this guide. The deepest subway station in the world is Arsenalna at 105.5 meters.

The Motherland Monument. HUGE

 

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Ukraine, Chernobyl, 24 July 2019

I went on a tour to Chernobyl, the site of the worst Nuclear disaster in history. Thousands finished up dying due to the radiation spread by the Reactor explosion. The scariest thing about radiation is that you don’t feel any pain when you are exposed to it, so there is no warning at all. The tour was with Chornobyl Tour and cost US$99 plus another $5 for lunch, you have to book at least a week in advance or it will cost you another $50. The place is still radioactive to varying degrees and the worst affected places will remain so for 20,000 years. There is a 30 kilometer exclusion zone and inside that a 10 kilometer zone with very tight security, controlled by the army due to the terrorist factor but the area is so big that people still manage to get through. The basic rule is cover up, only hands and head exposed and don’t touch anything. You have to wear a dosimeter the whole time and have to turn it in to the authorities at the end of the tour, I presume they will notify you if you have been exposed to a lethal dose hahaha. It is actually quite safe because tourists are only taken to the safe areas but dust does blow around hence the “Don’t touch anything” rule. There are also 3 radiation checks at various points before you are allowed to leave. Over 2000 people still work at the site on the cleanup which is expected to take another 70 years. The reactor was first covered by the Soviets but it was a temporary measure and was replaced in 2018 with a new Structure costing US$2.3 billion funded by the European bank. This was an accident caused by a design fault but not according to the movie “The Russian Woodpecker”.

We also visited the Duga over-the-horizon Radar Site which is inside the 10 km exclusion zone. Apparently it cost billions and never worked. It is absolutely huge, an amazing sight. The movie to watch is “The Man Who Saved the World” the little know true story of a Soviet Radar officer who broke protocol by not reporting multiple missile launches from the USA due to a computer glitch. If he had done so none of us would be here today WWIII.

The model town of Pripyat, population 50,000 was abandoned, people took only what they could carry onto the bus when they were evacuated. They were told they would be back in 3 days time, they never returned. Since then most of the things left behind have been pilfered illegally, Stalkers come to visit and some have painted murals on the walls.

 

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Ukraine, Kiev, 21 – 23 July 2019

Lviv to Kiev – the first 300 km the roads varied from 2 to 4 lane with some rough patches and the last 200 was a good 4 lane road, stopped for fuel twice, one black cloud decided to rain on me for 5 minutes, otherwise fine weather. 538 kms – 6:10 hrs.

Kiev – big city with lots of things to see and do. Population over 3 million with 3 metro lines that will get you close to most places, cost of a ride is UAH 8 or €0.28 and you can pay with Google Pay on your phone at the turnstile, no queuing up to buy a token. Uber is another cheap alternative, most rides are less than €3.00. My Vodafone SIM stopped working due to no credit so I had to buy a plan for UAH 80 which gave me 4GB data and some calls. Basically when you buy the SIM  for UAH 65 there is a minimal amount of Data included and no calls. I also paid another UAH 50 so I could use it as a hotspot.

The Maidan where the 2014 Revolution took place is the first stop for most tourists.

The Babi Yar Memorial Reserve was established in the ravine where tens of thousands of people were massacred by the Nazi’s.

 

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Ukraine, Lviv, 19 – 21 July 2019

Jankowice, Poland to Lviv, Ukraine – First I had to get a visa to Ukraine. I applied for an eVisa on 1 July 2019, this involved uploading copies of my passport photo page, health insurance, bank statement and my hotel booking in Ukraine. The website says that the visa will be issued within nine days, normally eVisa’s are issued the same day or the following day. After not hearing from them for a week I cancelled my Ukraine hotel booking otherwise I would have had to pay for it and sent them an email asking when the visa would be issued. The reply was a standard form saying that my application had been received. I waited another week and sent them another email reminding them of their nine day promise and I received the visa the next day hahaha. So if you are going to visit Ukraine apply for your eVisa a month in advance to be on the safe side. The fact that I changed my hotel made no difference at all at the border crossing, they did not ask to see the hotel booking.

It took 25 minutes to ride to the border no tolls, arrived at 0750 and there was a short queue of cars in two lanes, one for “tax free”. I am not sure why Poland is interested in what people take out of the country. Anyway I rode down the emergency lane to the front and waited at the red lights, they only let a few cars through at a time, I can see how this could become a very long queue by the end of the day. After 5 minutes they turned green and first stop was combined Immigration and Customs, there was another bike up ahead and I stopped behind him and we got told off by the Customs woman for not waiting behind the white line hahaha. She asked me to open my panniers and top box, did not even look inside, stamped my passport and checked my bike registration document and I was through. Before I rode off I checked the exit stamp, this is important because of the 90 days out of 180 Schengen visa free rule. Quite often they will simply glance at your passport and hand it back without stamping it to speed things up, this has happened to me many times. Failing to get this stamp will cause you grief in the future especially if you depart from Schiphol, even though you can show that you have a Ukraine entry stamp which obviously means that you have left the Schengen area. The guy on the other bike turned out to be Ukrainian, who did not speak a word of English but Google Translate to the rescue. We rode a short distance to Ukraine Immigration, first stop you get given a small form with some writing, next my visa was checked and passport stamped and the small form got a stamp. A few meters further was Customs and the guy checked my bike documents, did not have to open my panniers again and stamped the little form. I asked Vitali, the other biker about insurance and he translated for me, the Customs guy said buy it from the Petrol station just outside the exit. Before you can exit you have to hand in the small form and it has to have all the necessary stamps or you won’t get let out. A few hundred meters further on is the petrol station on the right, we rode in there and at the far end is a tiny little tin shack with a woman sitting in it, she took my passport and bike registration and filled in the Insurance form, it cost UAH 130 or €4.45 for 1 month. All done by 0855 or 0955 local time, (Ukraine is an hour ahead) total time taken 1:05 hours and completely painless.

The speed limit is 60 kph through towns, 90 kph on 2 lane roads and 110 kph on 4 lane roads, there are no freeways or toll roads in Ukraine. Vitali riding a new Honda Goldwing which is a 6 cylinder 1800 cc behemoth ignored all limits and I just followed him hahaha. We encountered only one radar check with plenty of warning beforehand and they were too busy writing tickets anyway. Two lane road most of the way in reasonable condition, arrived in Lviv an hour later. This city has trams and cobblestone roads in very bad condition, there is no chance of anyone exceeding 10 kph hahaha, the tram rails are on little hills with valleys in between and the cobblestones are all at different angles, quite an experience changing lanes.

Lviv – has been around for a long time, it is on the UNESCO World Heritage List and the old town has many charming old buildings which have seen better days. Lots of tourists and prices are a quarter of the EU average. Trams or Uber are the best way to get around, trams cost UAH 5 a ride €0.17 a ride, you buy the ticket from the driver and then punch it with one of the machines on the wall of the tram. Uber will get you to most places for around 2 Euro. I bought a Vodafone SIM for UAH 65 0r €2.27 with unlimited 4G Data for a month and calls to other Vodafones and some calls to other phones. But I soon found out you need credit for that and I bought UAH 50 worth, I also paid another 50 to be able to use my phone as a Hotspot.

Rynok Square is the heart of the old town.

Wandering around Lviv, always something interesting around the corner.

The Lviv Historical Museum consists of three small rooms and a courtyard.

Big Churches and Trams that date back to the 15th century.

Lviv Art Gallery inside the Potocki Palace plus wedding 2 and 3 today, all red, black and white.

The Beer Museum, the most entertaining place in Lviv

 

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Poland, Krakow and Jankowice, 12 – 18 July 2019

Leipzig to Krakow  – all on the freeway, on and off drizzle very annoying, long queues at roadworks annoying which I got around by riding down the emergency lane. No holdups crossing the border into Poland just rode straight through, speed limit now 140 kph. Then 4 toll stops even more annoying because I have to stop get my gloves off to get a ticket, stuff it into a pocket and at the other end dig the ticket out of my pocket and pay for the toll with my credit card which is in my wallet in another pocket hahaha all with impatient drivers waiting behind me. Long queues waiting at each toll plaza which I simply rode around or the ride would have taken even longer than the 7:25 hours for 627 kms that’s about an hour longer than it should have taken. Two stops to refuel and on the positive side the price dropped to €1.20/litre.

Krakow a surprisingly nice place to visit with a beautiful old town and a well developed tourist industry, you could say too well developed because it was packed. Also the place where Oskar Schindler made famous by Schindler’s List saved a few Jews from the Nazis. Trams go to most places and cost 3.40 zloty for a ride, Use Here maps to see the routes.

Rynek Glowny – the main square and the centre of attraction.

The Barbican and the Museum which is under the Main Square

Schindler Factory Museum – This turned out to be “Not the Schindler Factory Museum” but simply a narrative of the Nazi occupation of Krakow and Poland, mainly photographs. Don’t go there expecting to see scenes or sets from the movie on display, you will be disappointed. If you go to the Schindler Factory during the day you will have to join a long queue to buy your ticket as a restricted number of tickets are sold each day, Monday’s are free. You can buy tickets in advance online or you can buy them from the Museum Office located in the Cloth Hall which is in the Main Square, which is what I did and if you go to the factory after 6:00 PM there is no queue.

Wavel Castle – this is a money spinner for the city, there are ten different tickets you can buy to see various parts of the complex. I bought one for the State Rooms 25 zloty and one for the Cathedral 12 zloty, no photos allowed either. Be there at 0830, ticket sales start at 0900, if you don’t want to wait for hours in a queue go to the Ticket office at the rear of the castle where there are three counters instead of the one at the front of the castle where they only have one counter. The Cathedral ticket is sold at another office opposite the Cathedral.

Krakow to Jankowice – about a 30 min ride from the Ukraine border. I stopped here for the night so I could get an early start and get to the border before the queues built up. There are some horror stories about people having to wait all day to get through. This usually does not happen when you are riding a bike because you can ride to the front of the queue but my policy with borders is “get there early”. Uneventful ride fine weather 223 kms in 2:20 hrs with one stop for fuel.

 

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Germany, Leipzig, 09 – 11 July 2019

Veghel to Leipzig, through a densely populated part of Germany. A cold ride at 17c with the occasional drizzle and when I got into Leipzig there were roadworks blocking my path so I had to find a way around them, a fun way to end the ride especially when you take into account one way streets hahaha. 583 km and 6:35 hours with two stops.

Leipzig, the most livable city in Germany and a very nice place to visit. The whole centre of the city is pedestrian only with numerous “Passages” connecting the streets. Trams go everywhere and an all day ticket costs €7.60. Tickets can also be used on the trains and busses and don’t go looking for a bus stop because they run down the middle of the road on the tram tracks and use the tram stops.

St.Thomas Church, many famous composers have played in this church and Bach is buried here.

Leipzig History Museum, a city with a past.

Monument to the Battle of the Nations – this thing is huge, quite an amazing sight inside and out.

First a small museum about the Battle and then into the Monument.

I also visited the Panometer, Carolas Garten. I would have preferred the Titanic exhibition.

 

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Netherlands, Veghel, 28 June – 08 July 2019

I rode from Edinburgh to Harwich on Friday, 7:50 hrs in fine and cold weather, spent the night there then caught the morning ferry on Saturday to Hook of Holland 7:00 hrs, lots of bikes on the ferry all heading for the MotoGP at Assen on Sunday. When I rode off the ferry it was a hot 34c and it was 20c in Harwich when I left, had to stop and swap to summer gloves and open up my jacket. Short 1.5 hour ride to Veghel and being a Saturday very little traffic, arrived at 18:30 local time, there is a one hour time difference.

For the next week I watched the Womens World Cup Football and the Tour de France and drank beer.

 

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UK, Scotland, 21 – 27 June 2019

From Somerset I rode north to Edinburgh, 7.5 hours with 2 stops for petrol and no rain the whole way, a first. Normally when travelling this route I get wet but it was a cold ride 15-17c combined with the wind chill and I did not wear my heated gear.

Day trip to Killin and Calander

Scottish Portrait Gallery and the Scottish National Gallery in Edinburgh. Grey and wet outside, a good day to stay indoors.

My bike was parked in the car park in front of the house when I heard the alarm go off. I went outside and found that a car had reversed into my bike and knocked it over. The driver was a Driving Instructor hahaha and he was driving the car he gives lessons in. So my day was occupied with riding to a Suzuki Dealer and getting a written estimate to fix the damage which was mainly cosmetic. His insurance is going to pay for the damage and the matter has been settled. The main thing is that the bike can still be ridden, no problem.

Day trip to original Falkland and Perth, they are much closer together than their namesakes hahaha.

First stop Falkland, a very small and quaint village.

Next stop Perth a much bigger place.

A visit to Linlithgow where Mary, Queen of Scots was born.

 

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UK, England, 09 – 20 June 2019

I arrived at Gatwick and was expecting a queue at immigration but “Surprise”, they now have an automated system for some countries with lots of terminals so I basically just walked straight through to wait for my luggage. From there I walked to the Gatwick station which is part of the airport and bought my ticket to Hastings on the way to the platform, non-stop train and my friend was waiting to pick me up. I decided to spend some time in the UK catching up with friends and of course getting my bike fit for travel.

First stop was getting the mandatory annual safety check called the MOT done and they found the rear number plate bulb needed replacing hahaha. Next change the oil and filter and fit new spark plugs. As the bike is now nearly 5 years old, 60,000 kms on the odometer I decided to fit a new battery as a precaution.

From Hastings I rode West to Storrington, a soggy ride.

Next ride Northwest to a village in Somerset near Bath and a trip to Cheddar Gorge.

A visit to Aerospace Bristol to see a real live Concorde. Bristol was an early pioneer in the aircraft industry.

Lunch and a walk around the historic town of Bath.

 

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