Oman, Muscat, 10-16 November 2012

Oman, the home of Frankincense, its tree sap and has been traded for over 5000 years.

Very different from Abu Dhabi and Dubai, its mountainous and with its commanding position on the Strait of Hormuz it has been a cross roads for thousands of years.
This is reflected in the many different currencies that were in use and until 1970 the Gulf rupee was legal tender, printed in India its serial number was prefixed by a Z to differentiate it from the Indian rupee and it was worth more.
The ethnic mix is about the same Indians and Pakistanis, fewer Filipinos and more locals. Not as well developed, no high rise buildings or fancy shopping centres but lots of old Forts.
Muscat is spread out along the coast, the older part is near the Harbour, Old Muscat, Mutrah and Ruwi. Public Transport is practically non-existent, taxis are cheap and are the norm, they are not metered and negotiable, the fare from the airport to Ruwi is 10 Rial or $25 and takes about 30min.

There is also a compound for other regions where there are some very plain Churches and a Hindu Temple and the services for all religions are all held on Friday.

The bus from Dubai to Oman leaves from behind the DNATA building in Deira, Dubai (see map below), all the Taxi drivers know where it is or you can take the Metro to Al Rigga station and walk. There are 2 bus services Al-Khanjry and ONTC and the one-way fare is AED 60 or $16. They both have 2 services per day that leave about the same time 0700 and 1500, be there an hour early to make sure you get a seat, though when I travelled the bus was half empty. The busses just park on the road, there is no special Bus Stop you put your luggage in the storage area under the bus, get on, sit down and someone will eventually sell you a ticket. They are air-conditioned but the leg room is tight and there is no food or water so bring your own.
Along the way the bus stops 4 times, first near Hatta as you pass through a kink of the Emirates into Oman where the Emirates guy gets on the bus and checks your Entry visa, second stop is where you get off the bus and get your Emirates Exit stamp, third stop is Oman Customs where all the luggage is removed from the bus and opened up on tables and checked by a human then its moved to the ground and checked by a dog, back on the bus and the fourth and final stop is for your Entry visa into Oman, fill in the form and pay 5 Oman Rial or AED 50, there is an ATM here if you need Oman cash, then back on the bus. As you enter Muscat, the bus stops on demand and people get off so its best to check the location of your hotel and ask the driver to let you off at the closest stop, it will save you time and taxi fare. Finally the bus arrives at the Ruwi Bus Station at 1300hrs (6 hours), this is the Business District of Muscat.

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United Arab Emirates, Dubai, January 2011 & November 2012.

Dubai is bigger than Abu Dhabi and the infrastructure is state of the art. The Metro is one of the best, driverless trains, spotlessly clean and cheap. Again it is populated by Indians, Pakistanis and Filipinos, if you see a local grab your camera hahaha. Some very elaborate Shopping Malls.

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United Arab Emirates, Abu Dhabi, 1-5 Nov 2012

Abu Dhabi, big modern city with 8 lane roads and not a lot of traffic on them, no traffic jams here. There are 1.5 million men and 0.6 million women in this Emirate, 21% locals and 79% Immigrant workers mainly Indians, Pakistanis and Filipinos.

There is an 8km long promenade along the sea shore. Ferrari world is amazing the roller coaster nearly gave me a heart attack and the Grand Mosque used the Taj Mahal as inspiration. The Souk is a fancy shopping centre nothing like a market hahaha.

Transport is either bus or taxi, they forgot to put in a Metro when designing the city, busses are cheap and air-conditioned so are some of the bus stops but they are slow, stopping frequently.

Taxis are metered and their speed is monitored and not very expensive. The fare from the airport to the City is around $16. Taxis also stop at bus stops and pick up multiple passengers going to different destinations, the driver gives you a quote and if you agree jump in, probably illegal the way everything is controlled here.

The F1 GP was on, they only have Grandstand seats the cheapest of which was $510, you can’t just buy a ticket and pick your spot or wander around the track like you can in most places. All the seats were sold out by Saturday which is when I made enquiries, I was not going to pay $510 anyway.

Busses from Abu Dhabi to Dubai leave every 30min from the Main Abu Dhabi Bus Station at Al Wahdah, cost AED25 ($7) and the journey takes 2 hours. The bus is non-stop, air-conditioned, comfortable and you can buy snacks, it terminates at the Al Ghubaiba Bus Station in Dubai from there you can take a taxi or the Metro or another bus to your final destination.

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Seychelles, Mahe, 25-31 Oct 2012

Home of the Coco de Mer (it’s the biggest seed on the planet, looks like 2 coconuts stuck together)

Another idyllic tropical island paradise, any more of this and I could develop an allergy to City air. The people here are descendants of freed African slaves, the British navy used to burn the boats carrying slaves and leave the freed slaves on this island.
I stayed at Beau Vallon a popular spot for tourists lots of self-catering apartments for around $50/night and it has a beach which is what draws the crowds.
Victoria is the capital and boasts 2 sets of Traffic Lights, the official language is Seychelles Creole which is different from Mauritian Creole but they also speak French and English, a nice place.
Busses are cheap but very slow so I hired a car for 2 days ($50/day) and drove around the Island its about 80km around and then I drove back and forth covering a total of 250km in 2 days, the speed limit is 40kph, good roads and polite drivers and great views.

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Mauritius, Mahebourg, 16-25 October 2012

Home of the Dodo (it’s an extinct bird)

A slightly bigger dot in the southern Indian ocean, roughly 40×50 km, population 1.3 million, 80% Indian origin, 20% African, European and Chinese origin. Being further south means it’s a bit cooler here.
It has been ranked as the best governed country in all of Africa, six years in a row, finishing on top of the Ibrahim Index of African Governance and according to the Democracy Index, Mauritius is the only African country with “full” democracy (Source Wikipedia).
Mauritius is also ranked second in an air quality index released by the World Health Organization.
Good roads everywhere and people follow the rules, all religions are represented and they live in harmony. Economy is based on Sugarcane and Tourism, it’s a volcanic island so the beaches are few and far between but there are a lot of Golf courses.
I stayed in Mahebourg near the airport, $16 taxi ride to my hotel, bus fares to Port Louis the capital which is on the other side of the island are around $2 and it takes about 1.5hrs, you can go just about anywhere by bus for $2 but they are slow and stop frequently, taxi hire for 8 hours is $65. I did not see any military at all but there were a few police check points.
The official language of Government and Education is English but the people speak mainly French or Mauritian Creole, they understand English as well.
School, College and Medical care are free to all, transport for students, disabled and seniors is free as well, entry to Museums is free and there are no private beaches.

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Maldives, Male, 30 Sept – 7 Oct 2012

The Maldives looks pretty from the air, the first thing you see at the airport are signs which say among other things “No Dogs”, No Pork” and “No Alcohol”.
Resorts are exempt from the Alcohol ban, if you try and bring in Duty free booze it is taken off you and returned when you leave, so I heard.
This place is all about the resorts, sun, sand, snorkelling and scuba diving there is nothing else to do. A good place to de-tox.

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Sri Lanka, Galle, 29 Sep 2012

Last day in Sri Lanka, drove from Galle to the Colombo Airport stopping at the Galle Fort and a Turtle Hatchery. At the Hatchery they collect eggs from the beach before they get stolen, rebury them in the hatchery, wait for the eggs to hatch, keep the babies for 3 days the critical period and then release them into the sea. They also keep Albino baby’s and disabled turtles. The Albinos are conspicuous and don’t last long in the wild.

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Sri Lanka, Tissamaharama and Galle, 27-28 Sep 2012

Descended from Nuwara Eliya 2000m to sea level at Tissamaharama in the south east where you have the famous Yala National Park. From lush green mountains to a dry flat landscape by the ocean.

Went on a Yala Park Safari which means you hire a 4×4 and driver to drive around the park, $28 entrance and $50 for the vehicle. These vehicles have 6 stepped seats mounted behind the driver and there are about 250 of them, there were about 10 in the park when I was there can’t imagine what it would be like in peak season.

There were Elephants, Peacocks, Mongoose, Pigs, Monitor Lizards, Buffalo, Spotted Deer, Rabbits, Monkeys, Crocodiles, lots of birds and the highlight was the Leopard at the waterhole.

The story goes like this, Leopard drinks at the waterhole then walks to the top and lies down for a rest, Monitor lizard walks down and has a drink then senses the Leopard hesitates and starts back up, Leopard senses something and turns around gets up and goes back for another drink, Lizard is frozen, Leopard finishes and walks right past the Lizard barely giving it a glance. A graphic example of only hunting when you have to fill your stomach or the Leopard was a woose hahahaha.

The following day drove to Galle, this is a big place with good beaches which attract hordes of European tourists, thousands of Guest houses lining the beaches, reminiscent of Bali or Goa.

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Sri Lanka, Nuwara Eliya, 26 Sep 2012

First stop was the Kandy Botanical Garden, very nice, well maintained then back on the winding road, average speed 30kph to Nuwara Eliya climbing all the way to 2000m. Stopped at a Tea Factory on the way, very interesting process, the air-con gets turned off, many waterfalls, manicured tea plantations cover the slopes, very little traffic, not a big place historic buildings in good repair, amazing I like it and chilly.

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Sri Lanka, Kandy, 25 Sep 2012

Left Anuradhapura and headed for Sigiriya which has a Temple on this huge rock, I did not climb the 3 million stairs in the 40c heat, took a few pics and off to Dambulla which surprise, surprise also has a Cave Temple on another hill. I cheated here and drove half way to the top then walked the rest of the way, probably get stuck half way to heaven now.
Next stop was an Ayurvedic Garden and Pharmacy, there is a whole town devoted to this stuff and then Kandy at an elevation of around 555m a little cooler now. Cultural Dance Show and a visit to the Temple of the Tooth Relic, nothing to see except a whole lot of people trying to see something hahahaha, long day.

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