Russia, Cheboksary, 27 June 2016

I left Moscow at 0620 to avoid its infamous traffic jams, wet roads no traffic, missed a turn and had to go around the block, took about 40 min to leave the traffic lights behind. 4 lane road for 175 km and quite busy then a short bit of 2 lane road and back onto 4 lanes not so busy, then suddenly at 435 kms the 4 lanes ends and a narrow rutted road appears for 20 km fun ride and then 2 to 3 lanes and a few short stretches of 4 lanes, condition of roads not very good now, police cars at regular intervals stopping cars at random (not for speeding) stopped for fuel twice amazing consumption 24 kpl due to low speeds. Then just out of Cheboksary got pulled up by a cop at 1525 opposite the police station, had to go inside and sit down at a woman police officers desk, gave her all my documents and passport wondering what I had done wrong, she could not speak a word of English but was very friendly, recorded all my details and the bikes in a register, went through my whole passport, amazed at all the stamps she called a friend who spoke English and I had a chat with her about my travels, finally got going again at 1555. Short ride to the Hotel last bit dirt roads in poor condition arrived at 1625, 675 km in 10:05 hours, many fuel stations along the way. Best ride since the Isle of Man 🙂

 

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Russia, Moscow, 25 – 26 July 2016

Moscow, capital of Russia, population 20 million, not as tourist friendly as St.Petersburg. Most of the tourists I have seen so far in Russia have been Russians or Chinese. Tourists from the West are few, probably due to the rigmarole and cost of getting a visa. First you have to get an invitation to travel to Russia which costs AUD$63 and then you have to complete a Visa application online, print and send it to the Russian Consulate by Registered post along with a return Registered post envelope and a money order for AUD$150, no credit cards accepted. Total cost came to AUD$235 and it took 3 weeks.

Kremlin means fortress and it has a museum called the Armoury and a few churches inside and some government buildings. The ticket office opens at 0900 which is when I got there and there were about 30 people already in the queue. I bought tickets to the Armoury RUB 700 and the Kremlin which includes the Churches RUB 500 out at 0930, not bad. Next you walk to the Armoury entrance and queue up there again, security makes everyone open their bags and empty them out, took ages finally in at 1100 after 2 hours of standing in queues. There are two floors consisting of lots of gold and silver ornaments and weapons including a few stuffed horses and some elaborately carved carriages, no photographs. Next stop the churches, again queues to get into them, I chose the one with the shortest queue and gave the others a miss, after that wander about the grounds and the gardens.

The History Museum in Red Square is worth a visit even though most of it is in Russian

Red Square, GUM big shopping Mall on one side of the square and St.Basils Cathedral, this is the multi-coloured, multi-domed one you see in all the postcards, entry RUB 350 a short queue. The inside is a complete surprise, its not a large open space but a rabbit warren of small rooms and passage ways.

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Russia, Moscow, 23 – 24 July 2016

I left St.Petersburg at 07:20 cool and overcast and no traffic at that hour of the morning, perfect. For the most part the road and the drivers were good, 4 lane roads with 2 lanes each way or 3 lanes with one lane each way and the middle lane for overtaking, the overtaking lane alternates direction every few kilometers. There is a short stretch of new freeway in the middle that bypasses one of the cities along the way, toll RUB 200, too expensive for most because it was deserted. Some long stretches of roadworks caused delays. Speed limit through the towns of  which there were many is 60 kph and on the highway 90 kph, most people were doing at least 110 kph or more slowing down to 70-80 kph through the towns or when they saw a speed camera of which there are a few. My policy in cases like this is to follow one of the locals and learn. I saw at least half a dozen police cars parked on the roadside and they did nothing about the speeding so it is obviously tolerated. There are many fuel stations along the way, I stopped for fuel twice, cost RUB 40 per litre or Euro 0.55 cents very cheap . Arrived in Moscow to blue skies with a single cloud drizzling on me at 16:50 after riding 700 km’s in 9:30 hrs, a bit faster than my GPS or Google predicted (10:20 hrs) probably because their estimates are based on the speed limit.

Walkabout to stretch my legs, somethings going on

Moscow is renowned for the design and architecture of its subway stations. I followed this guide on Tripadvisor from start to finish, it took 4 hours, 10 am to 2 pm. First I bought a Metro card, not as easy as St.Pete, you have to go to a ticket window and use sign language hahaha, cost RUB 50, then you can recharge it at a machine, though you might as well do it while you are at the window. When you leave you can return the card and get a refund. Normal cost of a ride is RUB 50, with the Card its RUB 33 or 32 sometimes.

This happened on a Sunday so there were no crowds, though as the day wore on it did get a little crowded, apparently rush hour is push and shove time. The signs are all in Russian, no English so you will need a Metro map with both languages, even then navigating the Metro is a challenge because the signage is not consistent or simply not there, even the locals get lost, I must have been asked 10 times for directions and all I could do was show them my map and shrug. Though there was one train that announced the stations in English, shocking. Once you are underground you can keep riding the trains for as long as you like, I only had to use my Card twice in the whole 4 hours and the second time was probably because I took a wrong turn and wound up outside.

The trains look about 50 years old and sound like they could explode at any moment, the noise both in and out is enough to wake the dead and you never have to wait more than a few minutes for one to arrive, in rush hour its 90 seconds.

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Russia, St.Petersburg, 22 July 2016

I visited the Museum of Political History, well organised but most of the displays are in Russian. Another country where the politicians made decisions that wreaked havoc on the people.

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Russia, St.Petersburg, 21 July 2016

St.Petersburg – population 5 million, it was the capital of Russia until 1918. In 1914, the name was changed from Saint Petersburg to Petrograd, in 1924 to Leningrad and in 1991 back to Saint Petersburg. It is the most westernised city in Russia and its cultural capital.

Peter and Paul Fortress built in 1703 on an island in the Neva river to defend against an attack by Sweden never saw a shot fired in anger. Now it houses a number of Museums and a Church.

You can buy a combined ticket for RUB 600 to visit 5 locations.

Museum of Space Exploration and Rocket Technology

History of the Fortress Museum

Commandant’s House Museum

The Trubetskoy Bastion Prison – held many famous political prisnors.

Peter and Paul Cathedral

Church of Our Saviour on the Spilled Blood and the Horse Bridge

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Russia, St.Petersburg, 19 – 20 July 2016

I rode from Lappeenranta to St.Petersburg in Russia, 30 minutes to the border, Finland Immigration stamped my passport and checked my Bike documents and I was through in 5  minutes.

Rode another 5 km to get to Russian immigration, queue of about 15 cars, warm and sunny weather, you just have to wait until someone tells you what to do, it is organised but very bureaucratic and slow. First I had to park my bike and queue up at the immigration window, took ages because of all the stamps in my passport, the girl did not speak English and kept ringing someone, you have to show them your passport, bike registration document and the Invitation to Russia and fill in an Arrival and Departure form, they keep the Arrival and you keep the Departure which you hand in when you leave the country. Next stop Vehicle Importation counter, only a couple of people ahead of me, the guy here knew exactly what he was doing and showed me how to fill in the form, two copies (one for them, one for me) using an example form in English which he gave me. Next customs, he just looked at my copies of the forms and waved me through, did not ask me to open anything, next short ride to a barrier where they looked at my passport and finally on the road again.

No one asked me about Insurance for the bike and there was no where to buy any. After arriving in St.Petersburg I asked reception at the hotel about Insurance and they showed me an Insurance company around the corner who insured my bike for RUB 1,705 about 24 Euro for 3 months as a temporary resident of St.Petersburg. You have to show them the Registration form the hotel gives you, this was cheaper than one month as a foreign resident.

The first few kilometers it said Border Zone 60 kph speed limit but cars were wizzing past me so I joined them, the limit increased to 90 kph, again no one was taking any notice, I just followed the slowest of them doing 110 kph hahaha. Then roadworks, they are extending the freeway from St.Petersburg. I was trying to avoid the freeway because I did not have any rubles for the toll but my GPS lost the plot with all the confusion and I ended up on the freeway, first toll booth I offered the girl Euro and she gaped at me and called her boss, he came over and there was some discussion until the woman in the car behind me called them over and paid my toll which was RUB 50, less than 1 euro, I waved thank you and down the road to the next toll booth hahaha, this time the woman asked me if I had a credit card, we tried that and it worked, again RUB 50, easy. I soon learnt that you can use your card to pay for anything in St.Petersburg.

Off the freeway and crawled through the city to the other side where my hotel is located. I don’t think the traffic lights are synchronised because I kept getting stuck at a red light at every intersection and people park anywhere reducing 2 lanes to one. Traffic is not as well behaved as it could be but they do stop for pedestrians and red lights.

The first thing the hotel does is take your passport and register you as a temporary resident of St.Petersburg, this is compulsory and they give you a form to carry with you at all times in your passport along with your Departure form.

Next I went looking for an ATM to withdraw some cash and after walking for a couple of hours and trying out a few ATM’s all of which had a limit of RUB 5000 about 70 euro, I gave up and made two withdrawals of 5000 each. Next stop a phone shop to get a SIM card for my phone, the one they recommended has 4G unlimited data across the whole of Russia for 30 days and cost RUB 500, http://www.ekomobile.ru. You have to show your passport and temporary residence form for a local address, it took about 2 hours to start working after turning the phone off and on.

Day 2 – proceed to the Metro and buy a Metro card from the ticket machine for RUB 60 and recharge it with 10 rides for RUB 330, all paid for with a credit card (unlike Berlin where my card was not accepted and I had to pay cash) and the machine spoke English, easy, a single ride costs RUB 35. The subways are deep underground and the escalators go a long way down.

The Church of Our Savior of the Spilled Blood is closed on Wednesdays so I took some photos of the outside and visited the Russian Museum next door. RUB 450 entry, it has mainly paintings by Russian artists on display, well done.

After lunch it started to drizzle and continued that way the whole day. Next stop the Hermitage Palace / Museum. This place is huge and crowded, a bit like the Louvre in Paris, with a long queue in front waiting for tickets. You can buy a ticket online but its double the normal price. I discovered a quicker way to get in by reading a review online from another visitor. Facing the main building walk to the right and follow the signs that say Internet Ticket Entrance, just before you get to the Entrance there are 2 ticket vending machines, buy your ticket at them RUB 600, they speak English, walk another 10 meters to the side entrance and your in :-), don’t forget to pick up a map at the counter inside

The place is full of paintings and other forms of art and the palace itself is something to see. I had no idea where I was most of the time (like the Louvre) just wandered round for about 3 hrs until I found an Exit and out into the drizzle, you could probably spend the whole day here.

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Finland, Lappeenranta, 15-18 July 2016

From Berlin I rode to Travemunde to get the ferry to Helsinki, this will save me riding a couple of thousand kilometers and save my tyres and chain by that much as well. I need them to be as fresh as possible before I enter Russia for the 10,000 km ride across to Vladivostok, though I am carrying a spare chain, an extra 3kg added to my panniers.

The ferry run by Finnlines takes 29 hours to complete the journey, check-in starts at 2100 Friday night, boarding at 2300 and it leaves at 0330 Saturday and arrives in Helsinki at 0935 on Sunday morning, cost 261 euro for myself and the bike. There were quite a few motorcyclists on the ferry and the company helped pass the time. I did this same journey in the other direction in 2013.

From the Helsinki port I first went for a ride along the coast with a friend I met on t boat and then rode to Lappeenranta a town close to the border with Russia. The speed limits are much lower in Finland and there are speed cameras everywhere.

Europe is taking a beating with the weather, still cold and wet in the middle of summer.

The journey so far

Hastings to Lappeenranta

 

 

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Germany, Berlin, 11-14 July 2016

Berlin Wall Memorial

Stolpersteine – Commemorating the Victims

Finding Stolpersteine Map

Murdered Jews of Europe Memorial

Tiergarten, Global Stone Project, Soviet War Memorial and the Victory Column

The Art Gallery and the Reichstag

Potsdam and the Schloss Sanssouci – a day trip from Berlin

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Germany, Berlin, 9-10 July 2016

Berlin again, more Museums, this one is the Technical Museum, huge place, very interesting.

Next stop the Stasi Museum, the Stasi were the East German secret police who spied on the German people, they had about 100,000 employees and 200,000 informants.

An interesting movie about the Stasi “The Lives of Others”

Topography of Terror seeks to explain how the Third Reich happened, definitely worth a visit and its free as well.

17 June 1953 memorial, when the workers of the GDR revolted and a slice of Italy in Berlin

The Berlin Story – Having already visited the Berlin History Museum there were no surprises here, the visit to the Nuclear Bomb Shelter was the highlight.

East Side Gallery – A section of the old Berlin dividing wall turned over to artists

 

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Germany, Berlin, 8 July 2016

Four hour cruise around the River Spree and Landwehr canal

The Jewish Museum and Checkpoint Charlie

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