Italy, Trulli, Gallipoli, Leuca, 01 – 03 July 2017

All set to go from Matera and my battery was dead, anyway I got a push start and carried on. Did not have any further problems with the battery so figured that I must have turned the ignition key one notch too far into “Park” which leaves some lights on thus flattening the battery. B roads all day mostly in poor condition.

I went via Alberobello to see the stone roofed houses called Trulli, tourists and tour groups everywhere.

From the Trulli I rode to a small farm near Sannicola which I used as my base to explore the area. Gallipoli has a very densely packed old town.

Leuca is the southernmost point of Italy’s boot heel. This coast has many beaches and is a popular place with the locals.

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Italy, Matera, 28 – 30 June 2017

The ride from Naples to Matera was very nice. Once I turned off the coast road traffic disappeared, winding roads through hills and rolling countryside with farmland, perfect if a little warm 35c hahaha but I was only wearing a long sleeved shirt so I did not cook.

Matera, also known as the “the Subterranean City”. The old city or the “Sassi” is a UNESCO world heritage site, a very interesting place. It is also a registered Knee killer :-).

The 2nd of July is the Festa Della Bruna in Matera and all the streets are lit up at night.

 

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Italy, Capri, 27 June 2107

Capri, a resort island in the Gulf of Naples, visited by millions of day trippers. Famous for the Blue Grotto and the song “Isle of Capri” by Gracie Fields in 1934 followed by countless others.

I took a train to Sorrento and boarded the ferry from there to Capri, cost of a return ticket is 37 euro. The ferry takes 30 min and runs about every hour, you don’t have to book in advance and you can get on any ferry regardless of the time on your ticket. To get from the Sorrento train station which is on a cliff down to the port involves climbing down a very long steep set of stairs, coming back I used the elevator cost 1 euro, first you have to find it, just ask a local.

The ferry arrives at Marina Grande which is the main port on the island, from there you can book boat tours around the island (16 euro) and to the Blue Grotto. There is also a Funicular that will take you up to Capri for 2 euro or a bus for the same price. You can also get a bus to Anacapri from the port for 2.50 euro or from Capri for 2 euro.  The round the island boat tour takes you past the Blue Grotto but will not stop there for long because you have to transfer to a small row boat to get into the Grotto and it cannot wait that long. So you return to the port and get another dedicated Blue Grotto boat and come back, took about 2 hours for me because of the queue to get into the Grotto. Entrance to the Blue Grotto is 14 euro and I tipped the boat man another 5 euro. A very busy day.

 

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Italy, Pompeii, 26 June 2017

Pompeii – one of the most popular tourist destinations in Italy, quite a remarkable place. The effort involved in excavating an area this large must have been immense. There are two train stations that will get you into the site, Pompeii Scavi in the West which is on the Sorrento Line and Pompei town in the East which is on another line, they both start from Napoli. I happened to get on the one that stopped in Pompei the town, which wasn’t a bad thing because there is a richly decorated Cathedral in the town, a must see. I spent 3 hours wandering around the site, it was packed with tour groups, many from one cruise ship, they were numbered and labelled hahaha very annoying.

 

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Italy, Naples, 23 – 25 June 2017

Rome to Naples on the Autostrada 230 km, cost 16.50 euro in tolls. Temperature 36c and humid, I was glad when it ended and I could get out of my riding gear. As I had time I rode as far as the road would take me up Mount Vesuvius. You have to pay for parking at the top because most people leave their cars there and hike further up the mountain, they let me off because I was just riding through hahaha though I did have a Magnum at the top. There are also a few restaurants on the mountain with great views and I had lunch at one.

I stayed in Portici about a 15 min train ride from central Naples because I was told that my bike would get stolen if I parked it on the street in Naples. Apparently the city is a den of thieves ruled by the Mafia, Camorra and Ndrangheta (I’d never heard of them either). Every single Italian I met warned me about Napoli, they said you must have 10 eyes hahaha. I have found Italians in general to be a happy people with a ready smile but here in Napoli people do not smile easily.

Now the real reason I came here was for pizza, this is the home of pizza, where it was invented. Strangely the Napoli pizza crust is very soft and bread like, quite unusual compared to what I consider a normal pizza. I had a Napoli pizza in Trieste and it too had the soft crust unlike anywhere else in Italy or the world. They also serve beer and wine in plastic cups in all the restaurants I saw in the old city, strange.

I took the Metro 1.10 euro a ride to the Castel Ovo (closed) to see the sea, which is not possible from the central part of Naples because the port occupies the coast line. Lots of people out in the sun on a Sunday.

 

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Italy, Rome, 20 – 22 June 2017

Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel – Huge and crowded, reminded me of the Louvre in Paris.

Roman Forum ruins and Altar of the Fatherland

 

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Italy, Rome, 16 – 19 June 2017

Rome – capital of Italy and once capital of the world, its history spans 2,500 years, population 4.3 million. Lots of things to see and do and therefore lots of tourists.

Interesting ride to Rome via the B roads, took a while getting through Florence and I went past the statue of David on top of the hill.

Public transport consists of 2 metro lines, trains, trams and busses. I bought a 7 day pass for E24 which covers all forms of transport. The metro lines are easy to navigate but the rest are not. I found an app that helps get from A to B, very useful, Citymapper.

Castel Sant’Angelo

St.Peter’s Square and Basilica

Colosseum

 

Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon

 

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Italy, Florence, 13 – 15 June 2017

On the way to Florence from La Spezia I stopped at Pisa to look at the Leaning Tower. The road follows the coast at first before turning inland to Pisa. There are hundreds of hotels and resorts along this stretch of coast.

I stayed in a village in the mountains and took the train into Florence every morning E3.50 and 40 minutes. First stop Uffizi gallery.

I then walked up the hill to the copy of the Statue of David and a view of Florence, back down and the Galeria da Academia where the real David (by Michelangelo) resides.

 

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Italy, La Spezia, 9 – 12 June 2017

Modena to La Spezia on the SS63, this is a biking road, lots of motorcyclists enjoying the curves and very little traffic as well. Going over a couple of passes at 1200m , cool in the mountains, good ride.

This area is famous for Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre which consists of 5 small villages built on cliffs overlooking the sea. There is a hiking trail from the first to the last village over some very hilly terrain, I took the train hahaha. The train runs through a tunnel emerging into the sunlight only at the stations. Very popular with tourists so the place is packed and I avoided the weekend and went on a Monday and this is not peak school holiday season. It has also now become a cruise ship destination as well which adds another 5000 people to the mix. The train runs from La Spezia to Levanto with the 5 villages in between. The complete journey only takes 30 min and there is a train about every 30 min, an all day ticket costs 16 euro.

 

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Italy, Modena, 4 – 8 June 2017

From Trieste I rode to Modena, home to the Supercars of Italy – Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, Pagani and Ducati (motorcycles) in nearby Bologna, motoring enthusiasts heaven 🙂 . I also visited the San Marino F1 track at Imola, this is where Ayrton Senna lost his life in the 1994 F1 race.

125S

I used the Autostrada (toll road) from Trieste to Dolo as I had already been on the B road going there, first time on the freeway in Italy and no different to any other freeway. After Dolo I took the B road to Modena a much nicer ride through the countryside.

The Ferrari museum and factory are in Maranello on the outskirts of Modena, the test track is nearby in Fiorano. I visited the museum along with a few tour busses of Chinese and Germans, this is a busy place. I also went on the Bus tour of the factory and the test track, this was a complete waste of time, they drive around the factory grounds saying, in this building they make the engines and in this one they make the bodies. You are not allowed to get off the bus and no photos. Next the test track and we did not even go on the track just drove around the car park hahaha, end of tour. Ferrari make around 8000 cars a year and all of them are made to order.

Next I rode into Modena to the Enzo Ferrari Museum, this is where Enzo Ferrari lived and worked. This place has a museum of Ferrari engines. On the way there I took some single lane back roads and was stopped by a peacock in the middle of the road with its feathers extended calling loudly, then I noticed another male peacock on the verge. By the time I got my camera out they were gone, astonishing.

I rode to Bologna about 30 km from Modena to visit the Ducati Museum and Factory. They actually take you on a tour inside the factory where you are dodging carts delivering parts etc hahaha close to all the action (no photos), very good.

From the Ducati factory I rode on to Imola, not allowed onto the track, only a small museum and shop, an F1 car exhibition and a movie about Ayrton Senna as this is where he lost his life in the F1 race in 1994, caused by a steering column failure.

The Lamborghini Museum is located in a small village called Sant Agata. They also have a factory tour for which you have to book at least 6 weeks in advance. I was lucky to get on the tour the same day due to a cancellation, very interesting. They only make around 3500 cars a year and like Ferrari all are made to order with 1-2 year wait depending on the model. The museum had a special Ayrton Senna exhibition showing all the racing cars he had driven.

The Pagani Museum and factory were closed for renovations from 2 – 18 June so I will have to come back another time.

Maserati do not have a museum just a new car showroom in Modena with some merchandise. But the Panini Motor museum located in a farm out of Modena has a collection of Maserati cars, a few other brands as well and some motorcycles. It would be a lot better if there was more space and the exhibits were labelled.

 

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