Khorog to Murghab
Left the hotel at 0830 filled up with petrol and off at 0850, good road and a few villages then ascended to over 3500m and bad roads, slow going, arrived in Alichur at 1305 completely different landscape, cold, barren and treeless at 3900m. Small canteen, only had Shorba and oily re-fried chips and dry bread, meat was fat and gristle, left at 1350. Flat country after that, high plains surrounded by mountains, no reception on Tcell, poor reception on Megafon, one Police check point just before Murghab, arrived at 1550 altitude 3600m, the scenery today was extraordinary. Dirt roads and houses built at random anywhere. Homestay had a separate bathroom and toilet outside, there is no running water here, it gets delivered in a water tanker, with a basin inside to brush your teeth. I was worried about the altitude but besides a headache and breathlessness I was fine. The oxygen level at this altitude is 13% vs 21% at sea level. Only a 2G Edge connection here but Email and WhatsApp still work. Dinner was Shorba soup with rubber like lunch, put it aside, heard the call to prayer from the tiny mosque in front of the house by an actual human not a loudspeaker.